INTRODUCTION
Grilling foods over a charcoal fire is hardly a new phenomenon
in this country, or in any other for that matter. What is new in
America is an expanded approach to grilling that takes up where
the backyard barbecue left off some years ago. More restaurants
than ever have begun serving grilled foods-from simple fare to
the most sophisticated-much to the delight of their patrons.
This book takes a look at some of the new ways of using your
own charcoal grill to produce a wide range of foods, many of
which have their origins in cultures from Southeast Asia to the
Mediterranean.
The GriIling Book takes a broad view of grilling- broader than
what we as Americans have traditionally prepared over the
glowing coals. The first chapter examines the history of grilling
in this country, and shows that what is old is new again, par-
ticularly in the way of ethnic and regional grill specialties.
Chapter 2 and Chapter 3 offer detailed information on the types
of manufactured grills and the various fuels available, from
briquets and mesquite to hardwood, and how to start a fire.
Although this material may appear very basic, a surprising
number of people refuse to approach a grill for the simple reason
that they are not exactly sure of how to start a fire, or how to
control it once it's going. Chapter 4, A Griller's Guide to Good
Eating, which reflects the considerable knowledge of Jay Harlow,
a professional grill cook, is a systematic treatment of the kinds
of foods that can be successfully grilled-from meats, to vege-
tables, to bread and cheese. Many of these foods have become
popular at grill restaurants; to our knowledge, this is the first
time the methods for their preparation have been offered to the
home griller in a substantial way. The emphasis is on basic
techniques, with recipes that serve to illustrate them. Chapter
5, Primeval Cuisine, takes grilling from the backyard or balcony
and into the wilds-to the forests and coasts-to discover the
roots of this form of cooking. As such, grilling offers its practi-
tioners a connection with the basic
good food, and the time to enjoy it.
pleasures of life: a hot fire,
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阅读这本书的过程,更像是一次环球美食之旅,它远超出了传统美式BBQ的范畴,展现了烧烤文化的广博。我惊喜地发现其中竟然有关于阿根廷Asado的详细介绍,那种将整块厚实的牛排(Asado de Tira)直接放在炭火上慢烤,只用粗盐调味的原始手法,传递出一种对食材本味的极致尊重。书中还涉猎了日式“备长炭”烤串(Yakitori)对温度精确控制的要求,以及地中海沿岸用橄榄枝直接烘烤鱼类的古老技艺。这些跨文化的介绍,不仅丰富了我的菜谱选择,更拓宽了我对“烤”这个动作的理解——它不是一种烹饪方式,而是一种全球性的生活哲学。特别是对不同文化中“慢烤”的定义解析,让我意识到,无论是德州的低温慢熏,还是南美的Asado,核心都在于对时间的耐心投入,这本书成功地将这些分散的全球烧烤智慧凝聚在了一起,形成了一个宏大而系统的知识体系。
评分我一直认为,好的烧烤书应该教人“为什么”要这么做,而不是仅仅告诉我“怎么做”,而这本书恰恰做到了这一点,它深入剖析了食材与热量之间的化学反应。书中花了相当大的篇幅去解释美拉德反应(Maillard reaction)在不同温度下的表现,以及如何通过控制湿度来避免食物变干,这些科学原理的阐述,让我的烧烤不再是盲目的尝试,而是有了理论支撑的精确操作。比如,关于烟熏的章节,作者详细区分了不同木材(山核桃木、苹果木、樱桃木)释放出的芳香物质对不同肉类的影响,解释了为什么山核桃木的烟熏味更强劲,适合搭配牛肉,而苹果木的甜美则更衬托猪肉的脂肪香气。这种深入骨髓的知识普及,让我每次点火之前,都会思考今天想要达成的风味目标,并选择最匹配的木材。这不再是简单的“放点木头上去”,而是一种对风味的精确调控,极大地提升了我对烧烤过程的掌控感和乐趣。
评分这本书的排版设计和视觉呈现简直是一场视觉盛宴,完全超出了我对一本实用烹饪书籍的预期。每一页的色彩搭配都极其考究,那种深邃的炭黑色背景,配上食物本身鲜亮的色彩,营造出一种高级且充满食欲的氛围。摄影师的功力绝对一流,那些特写镜头,你能清晰地看到肉类表面油脂滋滋冒油的细节,烤架留下的完美纹路,甚至连烟雾缭绕的那一瞬间都被捕捉得如此生动,仿佛能闻到那股焦香的气味。我特别欣赏作者在介绍工具和设备时所采用的简洁明了的插画风格,那些复杂的烤炉结构图被简化成了易于理解的几何图形,让我这个对烧烤设备一窍不通的人也能迅速明白不同烟道和通风口的作用。而且,这本书在字体的选择上也下了很大功夫,主标题那种粗犷有力的衬线体,与正文清晰易读的无衬线体形成了完美的对比,阅读体验极其流畅。说实话,我忍不住把它放在客厅的咖啡桌上,不仅仅是因为里面的内容有价值,光是翻阅那些令人惊叹的图片,就已经是一种享受了。
评分这本书的配件和酱汁配方简直是烧烤界的“万能钥匙”,我不得不佩服作者在细节上的执着。很多烧烤书的酱汁配方都大同小异,无非是番茄酱加大蒜粉,但这里的配方却充满了惊喜和异域风情。例如,那款秘鲁式的Aji Verde绿色辣椒酱,用香菜、墨西哥辣椒和秘鲁黄辣椒(Aji Amarillo)混合发酵的酸奶油调和而成,那股强劲的酸辣感,搭配烤得焦香的鸡腿肉,简直是味蕾的重生。更别提它介绍的那些针对不同烤盘材质的清洁和保养指南,细致到连铸铁烤盘第一次开光的具体步骤都详细列明,包括用什么油、涂抹多厚、加热到什么程度才算完成,这些“旁门左道”的知识,恰恰是专业人士和普通爱好者之间最大的鸿沟。如果没有这些实用的附加信息,这本书的价值会大打折扣,但正是这些看似不起眼的内容,让整本书的实用价值直线上升。
评分这本书的烹饪技巧真是让人大开眼界,尤其是在处理海鲜方面,作者的独到见解简直是宝藏。我一直觉得烤扇贝是个技术活,很容易火候失控,但是书里介绍的那种低温慢烤,再最后用高温快速炙烤的技巧,简直是完美解决了我的困扰。烤出来的扇贝,内部依然保持着那种鲜嫩多汁的口感,外壳却带着诱人的焦糖化色泽和烟熏香气,搭配上文中所述的用柠檬皮和新鲜莳萝调制的酱汁,那种清新的酸度和草本的芬芳,瞬间把味蕾提升到了一个新的境界。更不用说关于烤牛排的部分,作者对于不同切割部位的肉质特性有着深入的理解,并据此推荐了最适合的腌制时长和烤制温度曲线。特别是那份“三步烤制法”处理厚切肋眼牛排的描述,详细到连烤架的间距和木炭的摆放位置都有精确指导,让我这个新手也能轻松烤出外焦里嫩、熟度均匀的完美牛排,那种满足感,光是想想都让人直流口水。这本书显然不仅仅是一本食谱的堆砌,它更像是一本关于“火候艺术”的哲学探讨,让我对烧烤这件事有了更深层次的敬畏与热爱。
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