Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources

Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources pdf epub mobi txt 电子书 下载 2026

出版者:Berg Publishers
作者:Peter McNeil (Editor)
出品人:
页数:1632
译者:
出版时间:2009-2-1
价格:USD 895.00
装帧:Hardcover
isbn号码:9781847882929
丛书系列:
图书标签:
  • 时尚
  • 服装
  • 文化研究
  • 社会学
  • 历史
  • 批评理论
  • 流行文化
  • 视觉文化
  • 设计
  • 媒体研究
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具体描述

Winner of the Art Association of Australia and New Zeland prize for Best Edited Book, 2010.

Fashion: Critical and Primary Sources is a major multi-volume work of reference which brings together seminal writings on Fashion. The geographical range of the essays crosses Europe, Asia and North America.

The essays reveal the wide set of methodological approaches which all bear on the study of Fashion - Sociology,

好的,这是一份关于一本假想的、主题与“时尚:批判与主要来源”无关的图书的详细简介。 --- 书名:《星际考古学:探索失落文明的回声》 作者: 艾莉亚·文森特 (Aria Vincent) 出版年份: 2024年 页数: 680页(含彩图插页与技术图表) 内容简介: 《星际考古学:探索失落文明的回声》是一部划时代的巨著,它将人类对宇宙的探索视野从单纯的天体物理学拓宽到了对宏大时间尺度上文明兴衰的细致考察。本书并非关注我们太阳系内已知的行星或星云,而是深入探讨了银河系中那些已经消逝,或已演化到我们无法识别形态的、高度发达的异星文明的遗迹。作者艾莉亚·文森特博士,作为“深空遗迹研究项目”的首席理论学家,凭借其数十年的跨星际实地考察经验和革命性的数据分析模型,为读者构建了一个既严谨又充满想象力的宇宙历史画卷。 本书的核心论点在于,任何一个达到技术奇点并进行跨星际传播的文明,其最终的熵增和宿命都将以可预测的“回声”形式,在宇宙背景辐射或复杂的引力波模式中留下可供解码的痕迹。文森特博士将这些痕迹系统化地分类,形成了一套全新的“时空残骸分析法”(Chrono-Relic Analysis)。 第一部分:理论基石与方法论的重塑 前三章奠定了星际考古学的理论基础。作者首先批判了传统宇宙学对“生命存在概率”的线性预测模型,指出其严重低估了文明在极端环境(如中子星周围、黑洞视界边缘)下的生存能力与技术适应性。 第一章:熵的终极悖论与文明的“幽灵签名” 本章深入探讨了高级文明为对抗热力学第二定律所采取的非传统策略。文森特提出,真正的文明遗迹可能不是实体建筑,而是复杂的、自我维持的“信息结构”——例如,被编码在量子纠缠网络中的历史记录,或以稳定态等离子体形式存在的巨型计算阵列。她详细介绍了如何从背景噪音中分离出这些微弱的、有组织的信息流。 第二章:时空残骸分析法(CRA) 这是全书最关键的方法论章节。作者阐述了CRA如何通过分析特定波段的引力透镜效应、超新星爆发后的元素丰度异常,以及特定星系团内非随机的暗物质分布模式,来推断远古文明的工程规模。其中,对“第十三代结构”(Thirteenth-Generation Structures)的描述尤为引人注目——这是一种理论上只有能够操纵时空曲率的文明才能构建的、用于储存能量或信息的宇宙级尺度结构。 第三章:时间尺度的挑战:追溯“大过滤器”的残余 本章讨论了如何区分自然现象与智慧干预的痕迹。作者通过对数个可疑星系团的年龄和化学成分比对,提出了一个“文明衰变模型”,用以估计一个文明从鼎盛期灭亡到其物理痕迹被宇宙完全抹去所需的时间。 第二部分:个案研究——失落的星际帝国 中段的四章聚焦于数个经过CRA方法验证的、具有确凿证据的古代文明遗址。这些案例的研究不仅展示了理论的实操性,更揭示了宇宙中不同文明演化的多样性与共性。 第四章:赛瑞斯回廊的静默:光学欺骗大师 本章对位于仙女座与本星系群交界处的“赛瑞斯回廊”进行了深入分析。该区域的特点是其光线观测数据存在持续且系统性的扭曲。文森特博士推断,赛瑞斯文明可能掌握了对光速进行局部性操控的技术,他们并非物理性地消失,而是将自身的时空坐标“折叠”起来,以规避宇宙大尺度事件的风险。研究人员在此发现了一个近乎完美的“光子囚笼”结构。 第五章:赫菲斯托斯之锤:巨型工程的负面证据 本章探讨了“负面考古学”的概念。赫菲斯托斯遗迹位于一个已知存在多次伽马射线暴的星系核心区域。传统观点认为,该区域的恒星形成率极低是自然因素所致。然而,本书通过分析该区域的特定重元素(如锇、铱)的异常稀缺性,论证了存在一个规模远超任何已知文明的实体,它在远古时期可能进行了某种大规模的“物质回收”或“能量抽取”行为,其行为模式类似于一个自我进化的、贪婪的宇宙级机器。 第六章:维里迪安的生态悖论:生物工程的终极形态 维里迪安文明的案例挑战了机械化或纯信息化的衰亡模型。这个位于遥远球状星团边缘的文明,其遗迹表现为一种高度复杂的、自我复制的有机-无机混合体。文森特博士推测,维里迪安人追求的是生物上的永恒,最终创造出了一种能够替代恒星提供能量的“活体反应堆”。本章详细描绘了该“活体群落”的拓扑结构,以及它如何通过吸收周围星云的气体来维持自身信息完整性的惊人机制。 第七章:未竟的对话:来自暗流的信号 本章是全书最为引人入胜的部分,涉及与“暗流文明”的接触尝试。作者披露了“深空遗迹研究项目”截获的一组高度复杂的、非周期性的引力波序列。通过量子傅里叶变换分析,这组序列被证明具有语法结构,疑似是某个文明试图在宇宙背景中留下“警示录”。虽然内容尚未完全破译,但初步分析指向了某种关于“信息泡沫化”和“认知边界崩溃”的深刻预言。 第三部分:星际考古学的未来与伦理困境 最后几章探讨了这项研究对人类自身的意义,以及星际考古学在未来探索中必须面对的伦理挑战。 第八章:人类文明的“时间陷阱” 文森特博士以一种警醒的口吻,将人类当前的技术路径与前述已逝文明的衰亡模式进行对比分析。她强调,人类目前对“永续能源”和“无限计算力”的追求,恰恰可能成为引导我们走向特定“时间陷阱”的诱因。本章提出了一个“熵增防御框架”,旨在帮助我们识别自身文明发展中潜藏的、导致古代文明覆灭的结构性缺陷。 第九章:文物保护与“不干预”的边界 随着技术的进步,我们可能不仅仅是观察者,更有可能成为干预者。本书探讨了在发现一个处于休眠状态的古代基础设施时,我们是否有权激活它?如果激活,这是否会带来未知风险?作者呼吁建立一个严格的“星际考古伦理公约”,规范对超古代遗迹的勘探和接触原则。 第十章:回声的意义:为未来文明铭刻路径 总结部分,作者回顾了所有被研究的文明留下的共同信息。这些信息汇集成一幅关于宇宙智慧生命的宏大图景:即便是最强大的文明,其最终的“胜利”也并非永生,而是在宇宙历史的长河中,留下一个清晰、可辨识的、有价值的“回声”。本书的最终目的,是确保人类文明能够以更明智的方式,确保我们自己的回声能够传达到更遥远的未来。 --- 目标读者: 本书适合对天体物理学、高级数学建模、理论人类学以及科幻哲学有浓厚兴趣的读者。它要求读者具备一定的科学素养,但作者以极富感染力的叙事风格,将复杂的概念融入到引人入胜的星际探险故事中,使得非专业人士也能领略到宇宙考古学的震撼魅力。本书的图表和技术附录提供了深入研究的基础,同时其对文明终极命运的哲学探讨,也必将激发广泛的讨论。

作者简介

Peter McNeil is Professor of Design History at the University of Technology, Sydney, Australia, and Professor of Fashion Studies at Stockholm University. He is a co-editor with G. Riello of Shoes: A History from Sandals to Sneakers (Berg, 2006).

目录信息

VOLUME 1: LATE MEDIEVAL TO RENAISSANCE SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
PART I: GRACEFUL OR MAGNIFICENT: FASHION AND AESTHETICS
1. Costume and Fashion Fernand Braudel
2. Fashion in French Crusade Literature: Desiring Infidel Textiles Sarah-Grace Heller
3. Art and Life: The Aesthetic Sentiment Johan Huizinga
4. The Medieval Aesthetic Sensibility Umberto Eco
5. Society and Festivals Jacob Burckhardt
6. Order and Fashion in Clothes: The King, His Household and the City of London at the End of the Fifteenth Century Anne F. Sutton
7. Summer: The Last Century, 1550-1644 Timothy Brook
PART 2: FASHION, APPEARANCE AND CULTURAL ORDER
8. Between Clothing and Nudity Mario Perniola
9. Women and Sumptuary Law Catherine Kovesi Killerby
10. The Upward Training of the Body from the Age of Chivalry to Courtly Civility Georges Vigarello
11. The Renaissance Beard: Masculinity in Early Modern England Will Fisher
12. Appearances Georges Vigarello
PART 3: FASHION'S FORMS - CUSTOMS AND FOREIGNERS
13. The Devil and His Striped Clothes, 13th-16th Centuries Michel Pastoureau
14. Venice and the Dress of Foreigners Stella Mary Newton
15. Costume and the Boundaries of Bodies Bronwen Wilson
16. Sewing Connections: Elizabeth Tudor, Mary Stuart, Elizabeth Talbot, and Seventeenth-century Anonymous Needleworkers Susan Frye
17. Feathers and Flies: Aphra Behn and the Seventeenth-century Trade in Exotica Margaret W. Ferguson
PART 4: TRADING IN LOOKS
18. Clothing Provision and the Great Wardrobe in the Mid-thirteenth Century Kay Staniland
19. The Currency of Clothing Ann Rosalind Jones and Peter Stallybrass
20. Gendered Space in Renaissance Florence: Theorizing Public and Private in the 'Rag Trade' Carole Collier Frick
21. The Economics of Clothing in the Late Seventeenth Century N.B. Harte
22. The Cost of Apparel in Seventeenth-century England, and the Accuracy of Gregory King Margaret Spufford
PART 5: FASHION AND REINFORCEMENT
23. Looks and Appearance Baldesar Castiglione
24. Gesture, Ritual and Social Order in Sixteenth to Eighteenth-century Poland Maria Bogucka
25. Prescribing Literature: Dress, Politics and Gender in Sixteenth-century Italian Conduct Literature Elizabeth Currie
26. Masculine Apparel Stephen Orgel
27. To Fashion a Self: Dressing in Seventeenth-century England Sue Vincent
28. 'Twisted' Poses. The Kabuku Aesthetic in Early Edo Genre Painting John T. Carpenter
VOLUME 2: THE EIGHTEENTH CENTURY SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
PART 1: THE POWER OF DRESS
1. The Cavaliers and the Parvenus as Imitators of the Court Werner Sombart
2. Lord Chesterfield's Letters to his Son, 1750-1751 The Earl of Chesterfield
3. Regrets on Parting with my Old Dressing Gown, or A Warning to Those Who Have More Taste than Fortune Denis Diderot
4. Eros and Liberty at the English Masquerade, 1710-1790 Terry Castle
5. Freedom of Dress in Revolutionary France Lynn Hunt
PART 2: FASHION - ART - ARTIFICE
6. The Purged Century Piero Camporesi
7. Popular Dress Daniel Roche
8. Image-Object-Space Katie Scott
9. The Artistic Expression of Iki [Chic] Kuki Shuzo
10. Street Style: Dress in John Gay's 'Trivia' Aileen Ribeiro
11. Nature and Artifice Georges Vigarello
12. Fleshing Out the Revolution Ewa Lajer-Burcharth
PART 3: FASHION AND THE APPEARANCE INDUSTRIES
13. Consumer Behaviour, Textiles and Dress in the Late Seventeenth and Early Eighteenth Centuries Lorna Weatherill
14. European Consumption and Asian Production in the Seventeenth and Eighteenth Centuries John E. Wills, Jr.
15. Taxes upon consumable commodities, 1776 Adam Smith
16. The Queen and Her 'Minister of Fashion': Gender, Credit and Politics in Pre-Revolutionary France Clare Haru Crowston
17. The Production and Marketing of Populuxe Goods in Eighteenth-century Paris Cissie Fairchilds
18. Developing Consumerism and the Ready-made Clothing Trade in Britain, 1750-1800 Beverly Lemire
19. Involuntary Consumers? Servants and Their Clothes in Eighteenth-century England John Styles
VOLUME 3: THE NINETEENTH CENTURY SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
PART 1: FASHION AND URBAN LIFE
1. Adolf Loos and the English Dandy Jules Lubbock
2. The Treatises of Dandyism Rhonda K. Garelick
3. The Invisible Flaneur Elizabeth Wilson
4. The Actress: Covent Garden and The Strand, 1880-1914 Christopher Breward
5. The Suffrage Response Joel H. Kaplan and Sheila Stowell
6. 'Tigersprung': Fashioning History Ulrich Lehmann
PART 2: FROM THE LOVE OF FINERY TO HONEST CLOTH
7. The Love of Finery: Fashion and the Fallen Woman in Nineteenth-century Social Discourse Mariana Valverde
8. The Exquisite Slave: The Role of Clothes in the Making of the Victorian Woman Helene E. Roberts
9. Dress Reform as Antifeminism David Kunzle
10. Reply to David Kunzle, 'Dress Reform as Antifeminism' Helene E. Roberts
11. Fashion - Jewellery Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarme)
12. Fashion Marguerite de Ponty (Mallarme)
13. Consuming Kashmir: Shawls and Empires, 1500-2000 Michelle Maskiell
14. The Management of Colour: The Kashmir Shawl in a Nineteenth-century Debate David Brett
15. Sartorial Ideologies: From Homespun to Ready-made Michael Zakim
16. Cheap Mass-produced Men's Clothing in the Nineteenth and Early Twentieth Centuries Sarah Levitt
PART 3: NINETEENTH-CENTURY FASHION AS FEMALE CULTURE
17. Invisible Clothing Philippe Perrot
18. Wool Cloth and Gender: The Use of Woollen Cloth in Women's Dress in Britain, 1865-85 Lou Taylor
19. Materializing Mourning: Hair, Jewellery and the Body Marcia Pointon
20. Femininity and Consumption: The Problem of the Late Nineteenth-century Fashion Journal Christopher Breward
21. "A Dream of Fair Women": Revival Dress and the Formation of Late Victorian Images of Femininity Margaret Maynard
22. Femme Fatale: Fashion and Visual Culture in Fin-de-siecle Paris Valerie Steele
23. Sex and the City: Metropolitan Modernities in English History Margot C. Finn
VOLUME 4: THE TWENTIETH CENTURY TO TODAY SERIES PREFACE
INTRODUCTION
PART 1: FASHION'S STRUCTURES
1. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture Thorstein Veblen
2. The Philosophy of Fashion; and Adornment Georg Simmel
3. The Economic and Social Role of Fashion Pierre Clerget
4. The Cerementing of the Gentleman Gerald Heard
5. The Predominance of Male Homosociality J.C. Flugel
6. Epilogue on Trousers Eric Gill
7. The Functions of Folk Costume in Moravian Slovakia Petr Bogatyrev
8. An Economic Interpretation of Women's Fashions Paul M. Gregory
PART 2: FASHION AND FANTASY
9. Themes in Cosmetics and Grooming Murray Wax
10. The Economics of Fashion Demand Dwight E. Robinson
11. From Gemstones to Jewellery Roland Barthes
PART 3: FASHION AND IDENTITY
12. Fashion: From Class Differentiation to Collective Selection Herbert Blumer
13. Why the Midi Failed Fred D. Reynolds and William R. Darden
14. The Production of Belief: Contribution to an Economy of Symbolic Goods Pierre Bourdieu
15. Fashion Shapes: Film, the Fashion Industry and the Image of Women Maureen Turim
16. Other People's Clothes? The International Second-hand Clothing Trade and Dress Practices in Zambia Karen Tranberg Hansen
PART 4: FASHION AND AESTHETICS
17. To Cut is to Think Germano Celant
18. Illuminations - Warhol in the 1950s Richard Martin
19. The Golden Dustman: A Critical Evaluation of the Work of Martin Margiela Caroline Evans
20. Art, Fashion and Music in the Culture Society Angela McRobbie
21. Vionnet & Classicism Rebecca Arnold
22. Paul Poiret's Minaret Style: Originality, Reproduction and Art in Fashion Nancy Troy
23. Hollywood Glamour and Mass Consumption in Postwar Italy Stephen Gundle
24. Magic Fashion Elizabeth Wilson
· · · · · · (收起)

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