There's a world of grilled food out there, and Steven Raichlen seems to have wandered through all of it the State Department deemed "safe." No Afghanistan, for instance. No Iraq. But not to worry. Any decent conflict produces refugees, and nothing travels quite so easily as your own way with food. So Raichlen availed himself of restaurant cooks in this country where and when he had to--all to get right down to the meat of it.
"Barbecue," as Raichlen points out, is a confusing word in the U.S. because it means so many things, up to and including slow-cooked barbecue with its smoky aroma and succulent charm. The word stands in for the tool itself. It's an event. It's food. It's the style of cooking.
To set the record straight, 90 percent of Raichlen's recipes (there are more than 500, from drinks to appetizers to main courses, salads, and desserts, not to mention sauces and dry rubs) are for grilled foods--and that can mean cooked on a hot grill, a moderately hot grill, a relatively cool grill, or an indirectly heated grill (which is more like an oven than a grill, but that's another story). Raichlen gets into some barbecue recipes: pork ribs, for example, or beef brisket, or chicken. But the reader would be better advised to look elsewhere for instruction specific to barbecue (cooking for long periods of time with smoke at low heat). The results will be more appealing.
But grilling. Well, Steven Raichlen has a lock on grilling. This book is absolutely overwhelming it is so deep, so comprehensive, so far-reaching, so all-encompassing. This isn't one of those chefs with taste memories from a grill in Barbados, now let's try to jazz it up and be clever kind of books. No. This is a book by an author who squatted in the market in Vietnam eating whole grilled eggs dipped in a special sauce, and he gives you the recipe and the technique. You could go set up your own egg-grilling stand in a Vietnamese market with this book. You could open shop in Central or South America. Or North Africa. Or the Middle East. Or Korea. Anywhere food is grilled--be that meat, poultry, seafood, or vegetables--Raichlen's been there and brought home the goods. The real goods.
But there's another angle, too. Raichlen freely shares his travel experiences with you, making this a valuable travel book. And he freely shares his techniques, too, telling you exactly how he learned and all about who taught him. His book is worth it just for the section on salads and sauces. Start there and work your way from cover to cover. Hey, take all summer trying. You won't regret it. Your life will never be the same. You'll probably find yourself thinking that if one grill in the backyard is good, two is no doubt better. See? You're already on your way. Let Steven Raichlen be your guide. --Schuyler Ingle
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从一个资深业余爱好者的角度来看,这本书的“社区精神”和“文化解读”部分,是其超越一般烹饪指南的关键所在。作者并没有将烧烤视为纯粹的烹饪技术,而是将其融入了美国(乃至全球)的社会文化背景之中。他花了大量篇幅去探讨不同烧烤流派背后的历史渊源——为什么德州的牛胸肉文化如此兴盛,与当地的畜牧业和移民历史息息相关;又为何南方的猪肉烧烤如此强调醋和芥末在调味中的作用。阅读这些文化背景介绍,就像在听一场精彩的纪录片解说。这极大地提升了我的烧烤体验的层次感。当我再为朋友们烤制食物时,我不仅仅是在提供食物,更是在讲述一个关于火、烟和历史的故事。这种深入的文化洞察力,让这本书具备了很强的“可读性”,即使你今天不打算点火,光是翻阅这些历史和地域的介绍,也是一种享受。它把一个简单的烹饪行为,提升到了文化传承和社群交流的高度,让我对这项爱好充满了更深层次的敬意和理解。
评分这本书的配方库广度令人咋舌,远超我预期的“烧烤圣经”的范畴。我原以为它会集中在美式烧烤的经典项目上,比如烟熏牛胸肉、手撕猪肉和各种排骨。当然,这些经典配方都做得极其出色,令人叹为观止。但真正让我惊喜的是它对全球各地烧烤文化的包容性。里面竟然包含了像阿根廷的“帕里亚达”(Parrillada)那种复杂的多肉类组合烤法,以及东南亚地区那种带有甜辣香料的烤制手法。我试着做了书里介绍的韩式烤肉酱汁,那种发酵的深度和香料的层次感,完全不是超市里买到的瓶装酱汁能比拟的。此外,它对各种“配菜”的重视程度也值得称赞。烧烤不只是肉,还有那些能平衡油腻感的配菜。书中对烤豆子(Baked Beans)的配方进行了深度挖掘,从不同地区的红糖用量到醋的酸度,都有详细的调整指南。这使得我的整个烧烤餐桌变得丰富立体,不再是单纯的“大块吃肉”的单调体验。这种百科全书式的全面性,让这本书的价值翻了好几倍。
评分这本书简直是美食界的圣经!我得承认,一开始我对它抱持着一丝怀疑,毕竟市面上的烧烤食谱多如牛毛,大多雷声大雨点小,要么过于复杂让人望而却步,要么简单得像小孩子过家家。然而,这本书彻底颠覆了我的认知。它不仅仅是罗列食材和步骤,更像是一位经验老道的烧烤大师,坐在你的身边,手把手地教你理解火候的奥秘。从烟熏的木料选择,到肉类腌制的黄金比例,再到烤制过程中温度曲线的精确控制,每一个细节都被剖析得淋漓尽致。我特别欣赏作者在讲解基础技巧时所展现出的耐心和深度。比如,关于“低温慢烤”(Low and Slow)的章节,它没有简单地告诉你烤多久,而是详细解释了结缔组织如何在高湿低温环境下分解成果胶,从而让肉质达到入口即化的效果。这不仅仅是食谱,简直是一堂分子料理级别的烧烤科学课。我按照书中的建议尝试了慢烤牛胸肉,那烟熏的香气、焦糖化的外壳和内部粉嫩多汁的肉质,简直让我的家庭烧烤聚会上升到了一个全新的高度,连我那挑剔的岳父都赞不绝口。这本书的价值在于,它教会你“为什么”要这么做,而不是死板地告诉你“该”怎么做,让你拥有举一反三的能力,即使面对全新的食材也能游刃有余。它让烧烤从一项体力活,变成了一门精密的艺术。
评分这本书的实用性绝对是五星中的五星,尤其适合那种有野心但起点不高的烧烤新手。我以前总觉得烧烤炉子很复杂,什么烟道调节、进风口出风口,听着就头大。但这本书的开篇部分,用极其清晰的图示和简洁的语言,把各种烤炉的原理和操作方法讲得明明白白。它没有回避技术细节,而是将它们“翻译”成了普通人能懂的语言。例如,它详细对比了直烤(Direct Heat)和间接烤(Indirect Heat)的应用场景,并且给出了非常具体的设备设置建议——如果你用的是传统的烟熏炉,你需要如何布置木炭和木块,来实现稳定的温度控制。我最欣赏的是它的“故障排除”环节,这一点很多食谱书都会忽略。里面列举了常见问题,比如“为什么我的排骨总是烤得又干又硬?”或“烟熏味不够浓?”然后针对性地给出了解药。我之前烤鸡翅总是外焦里生,按照书里“分阶段加热”的建议操作后,简直是脱胎换骨。这本书不仅仅是告诉你食谱,更是帮你建立起一套完整的烧烤逻辑系统,让你不再是盲目操作,而是胸有成竹。
评分天哪,我必须得为这本书的排版和摄影点赞,这简直是一场视觉盛宴!我平时买食谱书,最怕的就是那种黑白印刷、图片模糊不清的书,看起来就让人提不起精神。但《The Barbecue Bible》完全是另一个层面的享受。每一页都充满了鲜活的色彩和令人垂涎欲滴的近景照片。你几乎能“闻到”图片中那烤架上滋滋作响的油脂和冒出的烟雾。不仅仅是成品展示,连食材准备的阶段,比如大理石花纹清晰可见的牛排,或者刚刚腌制好、色泽饱满的猪肋排,都拍得极具艺术感。这让我在翻阅时,完全不需要想象,脑海中已经自动构建出了美味的蓝图。更棒的是,作者在介绍不同区域(比如德州、堪萨斯城、卡罗莱纳州)的经典烧烤风格时,不仅在文字上做了区分,连图片的风格也做了微妙的调整,德州的粗犷豪放和卡罗莱纳州的醋汁酸爽感,都能从视觉上被捕捉到。这对于我这种“视觉驱动型”的厨师来说,简直是催化剂。我敢说,光是看着这些精美的图片,都能让人对烧烤产生莫名的热情和冲动,恨不得马上就点燃烤炉。它把烧烤这种户外活动,成功地搬到了高雅的图册级别。
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