When he was twenty, Olivier Theyskens dropped out of design school to create his first collection. Within the next year, Women’s Wear Daily head­lined his “Star Quality,” Harper's Bazaar christened him an “Instant Icon,” and The New York Times singled out his work in coverage of the Metro­politan Museum’s Costume Institute, where it was already enshrined. That winter, Madonna wore Theyskens to the Oscars.

In the decade since, he has lent his power to two international brands, “restoring the fortunes,” as Vogue put it, of the house of Rochas, and then moving on to Nina Ricci as artistic director. His work has appeared on the cover of French, British, and American Vogue worn by Reese Witherspoon and Nicole Kidman, among other stars. Even the most casually fashion conscious consumers know his name, his striking face, and his dark, soft, and often-flattering aesthetic.

In this special edition book, photographer Julien Claessens looks back at his whirlwind career thus far.

Sally Singer is the features editor at Vogue magazine.