Book Description INTRODUCTION Perched on a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags, EDINBURGH enjoys a dramatic natural setting unrivalled by any other major European city. Arrive in the very heart of town – either by day, with an east wind tugging at the flags that seem to fly from every building, or by night, when floodlights float grand architecture above the streets – and you’re at once gripped by Edinburgh’s romantic historical essence, where ramparts and ridges, turrets and tenements crowd the eye. One native author of genius, Robert Louis Stevenson, declared that "No situation could be more commanding for the head of a kingdom; none better chosen for noble prospects". In its layout and, many would argue, in its personality too, Edinburgh is divided into its Old Town and New Town, inscribed together on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The former, perched on the spinal ridge leading down from the majestic cliff-girt Castle, is often dark and mysterious, and still predominantly medieval; the latter, with its graceful Georgian terraces and Grecian architecture, is a planning masterpiece of the Age of Enlightenment, when Edinburgh was Europe’s hotbed of intellectual endeavour. The Old Town swirls with gory tales of body-snatchers – crowded with Gothic detailing, its looming medieval housing and historic facades lend a very distinctive appearance and atmosphere – while the New Town, with its douce lawyers and canny bankers, captures the capital’s deeply dyed respectability. Being a relatively small city, with a population of under half a million, there are also marked contrasts between the closely packed grandness of Edinburgh’s centre and the grim, underprivileged housing estates of the outskirts, as portrayed on the big screen in Trainspotting – rarely seen by visitors, but still very much part of the modern city. A royal capital from its earliest days, Edinburgh’s status took a knock when James VI of Scotland left the city for London in 1603 to take up the British throne as James I. Just over a hundred years later, the Scottish parliament also disappeared as Westminster assumed control, and while Edinburgh never lost the style, appearance and trappings of a capital city, its self-importance rang hollow for many. However, the return of the Scottish Parliament to Edinburgh in 1999, after nearly three hundred years of rule from London, has lent renewed vigour to the political, commercial and cultural scenes, and Edinburgh is taking the opportunity to prove itself a dynamic, influential and thoroughly modern European capital. The recent opening of the new National Museum of Scotland, the redevelopment of Leith docklands, the rapid erection of new homes and offices in various parts of the city and the anticipated appearance of the architecturally ambitious Scottish Parliament building, due to be unveiled in 2003, are all contributing to this upturn in the city’s vitality and spirit. Above all, Edinburgh is a cultured capital, in part due to its rich literary and artistic connections, but also thanks to the unique creative outpouring of the Edinburgh Festival, the largest celebration of the arts in the world. The event draws around a million visitors to the city each August, and generates a carnival atmosphere matched only by the much shorter but even more boisterous celebrations at Hogmanay. Edinburgh also maintains a vibrant cultural life throughout the year, with innovative theatre, energetic clubs, live music and heavyweight literary and artistic events. The social life of the city has been equally enlivened in recent years: a number of stylish new Modern Scottish restaurants, which use traditional local produce such as venison and salmon to create innovative new dishes, have begun to earn Edinburgh recognition on the culinary map. Long known as a great drinking city thanks both to its brewing and distilling traditions and its distinctive howffs (old! pubs), Edinburgh now boasts a host of stylish bars and a thriving café culture, fuelled mainly by the presence of three universities, plus several colleges, which ensure a youthful presence for most of the year – a welcome corrective to the stuffiness which is often regarded as the city’s Achilles heel. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title. Excerpted from Rough Guide Edinburgh (Rough Guides (Mini)) by Donald Reid, Julian Ward, Gordon MacLachlan, Ellie Buchanan. Copyright © 2000. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved Introduction Perched on a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags which rise from the generally flat landscape of the Lothians, Edinburgh enjoys a natural setting unrivalled by any other major European city. One native author of genius, Robert Louis Stevenson, declared that "No situation could be more commanding for the head of a kingdom; none better chosen for noble prospects". At the heart of the city lie the Old Town and New Town, both inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List. The former, perched on the ridge leading down from the majestic cliff-girt Castle, is tightly packed, brooding and still predominantly medieval; the latter, with its Georgian terraces and Grecian architecture, is a planning masterpiece of the Age of Enlightenment, when Edinburgh took the lead in many fields of intellectual endeavour. Between them they contain most of the main sights, as well as a large section of the city's business and shopping sector. Over the last hundred and fifty years Edinburgh has expanded considerably from its historic core, but it isn't a very built-up city and boasts a marvellous range of parks and green spaces, as well as a seemingly inexhaustible supply of surprising and dramatic vistas. The return of the Scottish Parliament to Edinburgh in 1999, after Scotland was ruled for nearly three hundred years from London, has lent renewed vigour to the city's political, business and cultural scene. While Edinburgh never lost the style, appearance and trappings of a capital city, with its concentration of museums, galleries, historic buildings and national institutions, for many its self-importance rang hollow. Now, however, the city is taking the opportunity to prove itself a dynamic, influential and thoroughly modern European capital. The recent opening of an important new National Museum and various ambitious tourist attractions has also contributed to the upturn in the vitality and spirit of the city. One event that has been in rude health for many years is the remarkable Edinburgh Festival, the world's largest arts festival, held each August, when every conceivable performance space, from large concert halls to tiny pubs, are roped into use for a bewildering array of drama, comedy, music, film and performance. Around a million visitors flock to the city for the Festival, generating a carnival atmosphere which is absent - save for the boisterous celebrations centred on Hogmanay - for the remaining eleven months of the calendar. Nonetheless, Edinburgh maintains a vibrant cultural life throughout the year, with a wide variety of theatre, live music and literary and artistic events. Among the city's many galleries, the National Gallery of Scotland boasts as choice a collection of Old Masters as can be found anywhere; its offshoot, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, has Britain's oldest specialist collection of twentieth-century painting and sculpture. The city also has a superb range of restaurants offering most leading international cuisines, as well as a thriving caf culture. Its distinctive howffs (pubs), allied to its brewing and distilling traditions, have given it the status of a great drinking city, and the presence of three universities, plus several colleges, means that there is a youthful presence for most of the year - a welcome corrective to the stuffiness which is often regarded as Edinburgh's Achilles heel. Edinburgh's climate and when to visit Edinburgh's climate is typically British, with damp, cold conditions threatening on all but rare days of sparkling summer sunshine. Situated on the east coast of Scotland, Edinburgh suffers less rainfall than western parts of the country, but is prone to blustery and often bitter winds blowing in off the North Sea. Another local phenomenon is the haar or sea mist, which is wont to roll in from the Firth of Forth and envelop the city after a few warm days in summer. The coldest months are January and February, when the highest daily temperature averages at 6C (42F) and overnight frosts are common. July is the warmest month, reaching an average high of 18C (65F), although late spring (May) and early autumn (September) are often good times to visit for welcome spells of bright weather and less of the tourist scrum which marks the Royal Mile in high season. With the Festival in full swing, August is a great time to visit the city, but be prepared for large crowds, scarce accommodation and busy restaurants. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.
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我通常对那些标榜“袖珍”的旅行指南抱持一种怀疑态度,总觉得它们为了压缩篇幅,必然会牺牲掉城市里那些迷人且不那么主流的角落。然而,这本小指南彻底颠覆了我的固有观念。它在介绍爱丁堡的各个街区时,那种对地方风情的捕捉能力,简直令人称奇。它没有将所有篇幅都堆砌在卡尔顿山或者亚瑟王座这些显而易见的热门景点上,而是花了好大篇幅去描绘像斯托克布里奇(Stockbridge)这样更具生活气息的区域。我记得它详细描述了那里周末的农贸市场,那种熙熙攘攘、充满英伦生活气息的场景,甚至连市场里某种特定摊位的手工果酱都有提及。这种细致入微的描写,让我这个习惯了深度游的“老驴”都感到一丝惊喜。它不像那些官方旅游手册那样冷冰冰地罗列事实,而是带有一种本地人私下分享的亲昵感。阅读的过程,更像是在听一位熟悉这座城市脉络的朋友,在耳边轻声低语,告诉你“只有走到这里,你才能真正感受到爱丁堡的灵魂”。它成功地将爱丁堡从一个历史景点,转化成了一个有温度、有味道的鲜活都市。
评分如果用一个词来形容我的整体感受,那一定是“高效且令人愉悦”。我最讨厌那种冗长、自说自话的导游词,它们似乎更关心作者自己的学识展示,而不是读者的实际需求。然而,这本小小的指南,在语言风格上展现出一种近乎俏皮的幽默感和极强的目标导向性。它的语气始终保持着一种鼓励探索和冒险的姿态,而不是居高临下的说教。例如,当它谈到穿越老城那些幽暗的“关闭小巷”(Closes)时,它会用一种略带神秘的语气提醒你注意脚下和光线,这种“伙伴式”的提醒,远比生硬的警告更有效。在应对突发状况方面,它也做得非常出色,比如关于紧急电话、当地的礼仪禁忌(比如在酒吧里该不该给小费的微妙平衡),它都用非常清晰的图标和简短的说明进行了标注。这本书的价值,不在于它告诉你“什么都有”,而在于它精准地告诉你“你需要什么”,并在你需要的那一刻,以最恰当的方式呈现出来。它真正体现了“少即是多”的旅行哲学。
评分这本关于爱丁堡的袖珍指南,简直是为我这种“说走就走”的旅行者量身定做的!我是在机场候机时匆忙抓起这本小册子的,当时我的首要需求是快速了解这座城市的脉络,而不是一头扎进历史的海洋里无法自拔。它最让我惊喜的地方在于,它的篇幅控制得极为精妙。你知道吗,很多厚重的旅行指南,光是翻目录就能耗费掉你半个小时的宝贵时间,而这本小巧的家伙,却能在最短时间内,将最核心的区域划分、主要的交通枢纽以及“必看”的几个地标性建筑,用清晰的图示和精炼的文字展现出来。举个例子,它对老城和新城的区分描述,简洁有力,没有冗长的背景介绍,直接告诉你从爱丁堡城堡出发,如何用半天时间高效地扫过皇家一英里的大部分精华。我尤其欣赏它那种直截了当的推荐风格,比如它提到哪家小店提供最地道的哈吉斯(Haggis),哪条小巷子里藏着最适合拍照的视角,这些信息对于初来乍到、时间有限的访客来说,简直是无价之宝。它不是那种让你坐在咖啡馆里读上三天三夜的参考书,而是那种可以揣在口袋里,随时拿出来确认下一站方向的“急救包”。它成功地在“信息量”和“便携性”之间找到了一个极佳的平衡点,让你感觉自己掌握了这座城市的关键钥匙,而不是被一堆次要细节淹没。
评分坦白说,我购买这本书时,最看重的是它的设计和实用性,毕竟带着一本笨重的指南在苏格兰多雨的天气里行走,简直是灾难。这本书的装帧和排版设计,可以说是艺术品级别的。它的纸张质量出乎意料地好,即使被雨水稍微打湿,文字也不会模糊晕开,这在爱丁堡这种气候环境下,简直是救星般的存在。更让我称赞的是它的地图系统。通常小册子的地图都会非常粗糙,只能大致指个方向。但这里的地图,不仅清晰地标示出了主要的步行路线,还巧妙地用不同的颜色和符号区分了“步行街”、“公交易达区”以及“景观观景点”。我发现,它在设计上非常注重用户体验,比如在介绍博物馆和画廊的部分,它并没有按照字母顺序排列,而是按照主题——比如“历史与王权”、“艺术与文化”——进行分类,这极大地帮助了我这种有明确兴趣点的游客进行规划。这种“以人为本”的设计理念,让它在使用过程中几乎没有产生任何挫败感。每一次翻阅,都是一种享受,而不是负担。
评分我对旅行读物的要求之一,是它必须提供一些超越标准旅游清单之外的“秘密”信息。很多攻略都会告诉你去哪些酒吧喝威士忌,但通常只是列出那些游客都知道的“老牌酒吧”。而这本小指南,却颇具洞察力地指引我去了一些隐蔽的、只有本地人才知道的“Speakeasy”式的威士忌品鉴室。它对苏格兰威士忌的介绍部分,虽然篇幅不长,但内容却非常精炼且专业,它没有用大段复杂的术语来吓唬读者,而是用易懂的方式区分了不同产区(如艾雷岛和斯佩塞)的风味差异。这种知识的深度和广度,让我觉得它不仅仅是一本“游览指南”,更像是一本微型的“文化入门手册”。我特别喜欢它在描述爱丁堡的文学气息时,引用的那些简短而精准的文学片段,让你在行走于格雷菲尔斯墓地时,能立刻联想到那些曾经在这座城市中漫步的伟大作家们。它成功地将这座城市的物质景观与精神内涵,以一种非常巧妙的方式编织在一起。
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