The Mini Rough Guide to Edinburgh

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isbn号码:9781858282954
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  • Edinburgh
  • Scotland
  • Travel
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  • Rough Guides
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Book Description INTRODUCTION Perched on a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags, EDINBURGH enjoys a dramatic natural setting unrivalled by any other major European city. Arrive in the very heart of town – either by day, with an east wind tugging at the flags that seem to fly from every building, or by night, when floodlights float grand architecture above the streets – and you’re at once gripped by Edinburgh’s romantic historical essence, where ramparts and ridges, turrets and tenements crowd the eye. One native author of genius, Robert Louis Stevenson, declared that "No situation could be more commanding for the head of a kingdom; none better chosen for noble prospects". In its layout and, many would argue, in its personality too, Edinburgh is divided into its Old Town and New Town, inscribed together on UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The former, perched on the spinal ridge leading down from the majestic cliff-girt Castle, is often dark and mysterious, and still predominantly medieval; the latter, with its graceful Georgian terraces and Grecian architecture, is a planning masterpiece of the Age of Enlightenment, when Edinburgh was Europe’s hotbed of intellectual endeavour. The Old Town swirls with gory tales of body-snatchers – crowded with Gothic detailing, its looming medieval housing and historic facades lend a very distinctive appearance and atmosphere – while the New Town, with its douce lawyers and canny bankers, captures the capital’s deeply dyed respectability. Being a relatively small city, with a population of under half a million, there are also marked contrasts between the closely packed grandness of Edinburgh’s centre and the grim, underprivileged housing estates of the outskirts, as portrayed on the big screen in Trainspotting – rarely seen by visitors, but still very much part of the modern city. A royal capital from its earliest days, Edinburgh’s status took a knock when James VI of Scotland left the city for London in 1603 to take up the British throne as James I. Just over a hundred years later, the Scottish parliament also disappeared as Westminster assumed control, and while Edinburgh never lost the style, appearance and trappings of a capital city, its self-importance rang hollow for many. However, the return of the Scottish Parliament to Edinburgh in 1999, after nearly three hundred years of rule from London, has lent renewed vigour to the political, commercial and cultural scenes, and Edinburgh is taking the opportunity to prove itself a dynamic, influential and thoroughly modern European capital. The recent opening of the new National Museum of Scotland, the redevelopment of Leith docklands, the rapid erection of new homes and offices in various parts of the city and the anticipated appearance of the architecturally ambitious Scottish Parliament building, due to be unveiled in 2003, are all contributing to this upturn in the city’s vitality and spirit. Above all, Edinburgh is a cultured capital, in part due to its rich literary and artistic connections, but also thanks to the unique creative outpouring of the Edinburgh Festival, the largest celebration of the arts in the world. The event draws around a million visitors to the city each August, and generates a carnival atmosphere matched only by the much shorter but even more boisterous celebrations at Hogmanay. Edinburgh also maintains a vibrant cultural life throughout the year, with innovative theatre, energetic clubs, live music and heavyweight literary and artistic events. The social life of the city has been equally enlivened in recent years: a number of stylish new Modern Scottish restaurants, which use traditional local produce such as venison and salmon to create innovative new dishes, have begun to earn Edinburgh recognition on the culinary map. Long known as a great drinking city thanks both to its brewing and distilling traditions and its distinctive howffs (old! pubs), Edinburgh now boasts a host of stylish bars and a thriving café culture, fuelled mainly by the presence of three universities, plus several colleges, which ensure a youthful presence for most of the year – a welcome corrective to the stuffiness which is often regarded as the city’s Achilles heel. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title. Excerpted from Rough Guide Edinburgh (Rough Guides (Mini)) by Donald Reid, Julian Ward, Gordon MacLachlan, Ellie Buchanan. Copyright © 2000. Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved Introduction Perched on a series of extinct volcanoes and rocky crags which rise from the generally flat landscape of the Lothians, Edinburgh enjoys a natural setting unrivalled by any other major European city. One native author of genius, Robert Louis Stevenson, declared that "No situation could be more commanding for the head of a kingdom; none better chosen for noble prospects". At the heart of the city lie the Old Town and New Town, both inscribed on UNESCO's World Heritage List. The former, perched on the ridge leading down from the majestic cliff-girt Castle, is tightly packed, brooding and still predominantly medieval; the latter, with its Georgian terraces and Grecian architecture, is a planning masterpiece of the Age of Enlightenment, when Edinburgh took the lead in many fields of intellectual endeavour. Between them they contain most of the main sights, as well as a large section of the city's business and shopping sector. Over the last hundred and fifty years Edinburgh has expanded considerably from its historic core, but it isn't a very built-up city and boasts a marvellous range of parks and green spaces, as well as a seemingly inexhaustible supply of surprising and dramatic vistas. The return of the Scottish Parliament to Edinburgh in 1999, after Scotland was ruled for nearly three hundred years from London, has lent renewed vigour to the city's political, business and cultural scene. While Edinburgh never lost the style, appearance and trappings of a capital city, with its concentration of museums, galleries, historic buildings and national institutions, for many its self-importance rang hollow. Now, however, the city is taking the opportunity to prove itself a dynamic, influential and thoroughly modern European capital. The recent opening of an important new National Museum and various ambitious tourist attractions has also contributed to the upturn in the vitality and spirit of the city. One event that has been in rude health for many years is the remarkable Edinburgh Festival, the world's largest arts festival, held each August, when every conceivable performance space, from large concert halls to tiny pubs, are roped into use for a bewildering array of drama, comedy, music, film and performance. Around a million visitors flock to the city for the Festival, generating a carnival atmosphere which is absent - save for the boisterous celebrations centred on Hogmanay - for the remaining eleven months of the calendar. Nonetheless, Edinburgh maintains a vibrant cultural life throughout the year, with a wide variety of theatre, live music and literary and artistic events. Among the city's many galleries, the National Gallery of Scotland boasts as choice a collection of Old Masters as can be found anywhere; its offshoot, the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art, has Britain's oldest specialist collection of twentieth-century painting and sculpture. The city also has a superb range of restaurants offering most leading international cuisines, as well as a thriving caf culture. Its distinctive howffs (pubs), allied to its brewing and distilling traditions, have given it the status of a great drinking city, and the presence of three universities, plus several colleges, means that there is a youthful presence for most of the year - a welcome corrective to the stuffiness which is often regarded as Edinburgh's Achilles heel. Edinburgh's climate and when to visit Edinburgh's climate is typically British, with damp, cold conditions threatening on all but rare days of sparkling summer sunshine. Situated on the east coast of Scotland, Edinburgh suffers less rainfall than western parts of the country, but is prone to blustery and often bitter winds blowing in off the North Sea. Another local phenomenon is the haar or sea mist, which is wont to roll in from the Firth of Forth and envelop the city after a few warm days in summer. The coldest months are January and February, when the highest daily temperature averages at 6C (42F) and overnight frosts are common. July is the warmest month, reaching an average high of 18C (65F), although late spring (May) and early autumn (September) are often good times to visit for welcome spells of bright weather and less of the tourist scrum which marks the Royal Mile in high season. With the Festival in full swing, August is a great time to visit the city, but be prepared for large crowds, scarce accommodation and busy restaurants. --This text refers to an out of print or unavailable edition of this title.

探索爱丁堡:穿越历史的迷人旅程 爱丁堡,这座苏格兰的首都,宛如一位古老而优雅的女士,散发着深邃的历史韵味和蓬勃的现代活力。它坐落在起伏的山丘之上,城堡雄踞岩石,街道蜿蜒曲折,每一处都诉说着千年的故事。对于那些渴望深入了解这座城市灵魂的旅行者而言,一场精心策划的探索之旅将是无与伦比的体验。 历史的脉络:从皇家大道到苏格兰的灵魂 爱丁堡的故事,最直接的载体便是那条蜿蜒数英里、连接爱丁堡城堡和荷里路德宫的皇家大道(Royal Mile)。这条鹅卵石铺就的街道,不仅是城市的心脏,更是历史的见证者。行走其间,仿佛能听到古代国王的脚步声,感受到贵族们的衣香鬓影。 爱丁堡城堡 (Edinburgh Castle):这座屹立于死火山岩上的壮丽堡垒,是苏格兰最具标志性的象征之一。它经历了无数次围攻与保卫,承载着苏格兰独立的荣耀与血泪。进入城堡,首先映入眼帘的是巨大的城门和耸立的旗帜。内部,你可以参观苏格兰皇冠珠宝(Scottish Crown Jewels),欣赏这些象征苏格兰王权的璀璨宝石;探索苏格兰国家战争博物馆(National War Museum of Scotland),了解苏格兰在军事历史上的重要地位;参观圣玛格丽特礼拜堂(St. Margaret's Chapel),这是爱丁堡最古老的建筑,宁静而庄严。站在城堡的制高点,俯瞰整个爱丁堡,那绝美的风景定会让你屏息。 荷里路德宫 (Palace of Holyroodhouse):作为英国君主在苏格兰的官方居所,荷里路德宫充满了皇室的辉煌与传奇。这里曾是玛丽·斯图亚特女王的故居,充满了她的故事和悲剧。你可以漫步在华丽的宫殿房间,欣赏精美的挂毯和艺术品;参观曾经的皇家寝宫和宴会厅,想象当年的盛况。宫殿旁的荷里路德修道院遗址(Abbey of Holyrood)更是令人神往,残破的石柱和拱门在夕阳下投下斑驳的光影,诉说着岁月的沧桑。 卡尔顿山 (Calton Hill):如果你想从另一个角度欣赏爱丁堡的美景,卡尔顿山是绝佳的选择。这里矗立着许多纪念碑,如国家纪念碑(National Monument)、尼尔森纪念碑(Nelson Monument)和罗伯特·伯恩斯纪念碑(Robert Burns Monument)。登上山顶,你可以将爱丁堡城堡、皇家大道、新城以及远处的福斯湾(Firth of Forth)尽收眼底,尤其在日出或日落时分,景色更是美不胜收。 老城区的魅力:迷宫般的巷道与隐藏的宝藏 爱丁堡的老城区(Old Town)如同一个巨大的迷宫,狭窄的巷道(closes)和楼梯(wynds)交织在一起,隐藏着无数的故事和惊喜。 圣吉尔斯大教堂 (St Giles' Cathedral):又称爱丁堡高地教堂,这座宏伟的教堂是苏格兰宗教改革的中心。其标志性的皇冠形尖塔在城市天际线上格外醒目。教堂内部庄严而肃穆,精美的彩色玻璃窗讲述着圣经故事,而那张著名的“牧师椅”更是历史的见证。 作家博物馆 (Writers' Museum):如果你对文学感兴趣,这里绝对不容错过。它纪念了苏格兰三位最伟大的作家:罗伯特·伯恩斯、沃尔特·司各特爵士和罗伯特·路易斯·史蒂文森。博物馆内展示着他们的手稿、书籍、肖像以及个人物品,让你有机会深入了解这些文学巨匠的生活和创作。 维多利亚街 (Victoria Street):这条弯曲迷人的街道,以其色彩斑斓的店铺和维多利亚时代的建筑风格而闻名,被誉为爱丁堡最上镜的街道之一。在这里,你可以找到各种独特的商店,从手工艺品到特色美食,应有尽有。 格拉斯市场 (Grassmarket):这个历史悠久的广场曾是爱丁堡的交易中心,也曾是公共处决的场所,充满了故事。如今,这里是充满活力的区域,汇集了各种酒吧、餐厅和商店,是感受爱丁堡市井生活的好去处。 新城的优雅:乔治亚风格的建筑与繁华的商业 与老城区的古朴相比,爱丁堡的新城(New Town)则展现了18世纪乔治亚风格的优雅和有序。宽阔的街道、对称的广场和精美的联排别墅,共同勾勒出另一番迷人的景象。 王子街 (Princes Street):这是爱丁堡最著名的购物街,也是欣赏老城区全景的绝佳地点。街道的一侧是各种商店、百货公司和咖啡馆,另一侧则是王子街花园(Princes Street Gardens),在那里你可以放松身心,欣赏美丽的风景。 皇家苏格兰学院 (Royal Scottish Academy):这座宏伟的建筑是苏格兰最重要的艺术机构之一,经常举办各种高水平的艺术展览。 苏格兰国家画廊 (Scottish National Gallery):位于王子街花园旁,这里收藏了大量苏格兰和欧洲艺术品的珍品,是艺术爱好者必去之地。 格拉斯哥大学 (University of Edinburgh):虽然严格来说是老城区的一部分,但其宏伟的建筑群和悠久的历史使其在新城探索中也占有重要地位。漫步在大学的庭院中,能感受到浓厚的学术氛围。 文化与艺术的熔炉:博物馆、画廊与节庆 爱丁堡是一座充满艺术气息的城市,拥有众多世界级的博物馆和画廊,全年都举办着丰富多彩的文化活动。 苏格兰国家博物馆 (National Museum of Scotland):这个规模宏大的博物馆涵盖了苏格兰的自然历史、科技发展、文化艺术和社会生活等方方面面。从恐龙化石到蒸汽机,从古代文物到现代设计,这里应有尽有,是了解苏格兰全貌的最佳场所。 苏格兰国家现代艺术画廊 (Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art):分为两部分,分别展示着1900年以来的苏格兰及国际现代艺术作品。在这里,你可以欣赏到亨利·马蒂斯、巴勃罗·毕加索等大师的作品。 皇家植物园 (Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh):这个占地广阔的植物园是爱丁堡的一片绿洲,拥有世界各地的植物品种,包括壮观的温室和宁静的池塘。在这里散步,是逃离城市喧嚣的绝佳方式。 爱丁堡国际艺术节 (Edinburgh Festival Fringe):每年八月,爱丁堡都会被世界最大的艺术节所点燃。成千上万的表演者和游客涌入这座城市,从戏剧、喜剧到音乐、舞蹈,各种形式的艺术在此碰撞、融合,将整座城市变成一个巨大的舞台。 美食与饮品:苏格兰风味的探索 爱丁堡的美食同样不容忽视,从传统的苏格兰菜肴到世界各地的美味,应有尽有。 哈吉斯 (Haggis):作为苏格兰的国菜,哈吉斯以其独特的风味吸引着无数食客。尝试一下,也许会给你带来惊喜。 苏格兰威士忌 (Scotch Whisky):苏格兰是威士忌的故乡,来到这里怎能不品尝一杯正宗的苏格兰威士忌?许多酒吧提供威士忌品鉴体验,让你深入了解不同产区和风味的魅力。 海鲜 (Seafood):爱丁堡靠近海岸,新鲜的海鲜是餐桌上的常客。在海边的餐厅享用一份美味的炸鱼薯条(Fish and Chips)或是新鲜的牡蛎,是不错的选择。 苏格兰短裙 (Shortbread):这种黄油味浓郁的饼干是苏格兰的经典点心,甜而不腻,是下午茶的绝佳伴侣。 隐藏的宝石:周边一日游与独特体验 如果时间充裕,不妨走出市区,探索爱丁堡周边的风光。 亚瑟王座 (Arthur's Seat):这座位于荷里路德公园内的死火山,是徒步爱好者的天堂。攀登到山顶,可以俯瞰爱丁堡的壮丽景色,感受大自然的鬼斧神工。 罗斯林教堂 (Rosslyn Chapel):这座神秘而精美的教堂因《达芬奇密码》而闻名,其精雕细琢的石刻和传说中的秘密吸引着无数游客。 圣安德鲁斯 (St Andrews):这座历史悠久的大学城,也是高尔夫的发源地,拥有美丽的海滩和古老的城堡遗址。 结语 爱丁堡是一座充满魅力的城市,它既有厚重的历史积淀,又有现代的蓬勃生机。从雄伟的城堡到蜿蜒的巷道,从宏伟的建筑到迷人的风景,这座城市处处都充满了惊喜和故事。无论是初次到访还是故地重游,爱丁堡都将以其独特的魅力,深深地吸引着每一位探索者。在这里,历史不再是书本上的文字,而是触手可及的真实体验;文化不再是遥远的传说,而是融入生活中的点滴细节。爱丁堡,等待着你去发现,去感受,去铭记。

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我通常对那些标榜“袖珍”的旅行指南抱持一种怀疑态度,总觉得它们为了压缩篇幅,必然会牺牲掉城市里那些迷人且不那么主流的角落。然而,这本小指南彻底颠覆了我的固有观念。它在介绍爱丁堡的各个街区时,那种对地方风情的捕捉能力,简直令人称奇。它没有将所有篇幅都堆砌在卡尔顿山或者亚瑟王座这些显而易见的热门景点上,而是花了好大篇幅去描绘像斯托克布里奇(Stockbridge)这样更具生活气息的区域。我记得它详细描述了那里周末的农贸市场,那种熙熙攘攘、充满英伦生活气息的场景,甚至连市场里某种特定摊位的手工果酱都有提及。这种细致入微的描写,让我这个习惯了深度游的“老驴”都感到一丝惊喜。它不像那些官方旅游手册那样冷冰冰地罗列事实,而是带有一种本地人私下分享的亲昵感。阅读的过程,更像是在听一位熟悉这座城市脉络的朋友,在耳边轻声低语,告诉你“只有走到这里,你才能真正感受到爱丁堡的灵魂”。它成功地将爱丁堡从一个历史景点,转化成了一个有温度、有味道的鲜活都市。

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如果用一个词来形容我的整体感受,那一定是“高效且令人愉悦”。我最讨厌那种冗长、自说自话的导游词,它们似乎更关心作者自己的学识展示,而不是读者的实际需求。然而,这本小小的指南,在语言风格上展现出一种近乎俏皮的幽默感和极强的目标导向性。它的语气始终保持着一种鼓励探索和冒险的姿态,而不是居高临下的说教。例如,当它谈到穿越老城那些幽暗的“关闭小巷”(Closes)时,它会用一种略带神秘的语气提醒你注意脚下和光线,这种“伙伴式”的提醒,远比生硬的警告更有效。在应对突发状况方面,它也做得非常出色,比如关于紧急电话、当地的礼仪禁忌(比如在酒吧里该不该给小费的微妙平衡),它都用非常清晰的图标和简短的说明进行了标注。这本书的价值,不在于它告诉你“什么都有”,而在于它精准地告诉你“你需要什么”,并在你需要的那一刻,以最恰当的方式呈现出来。它真正体现了“少即是多”的旅行哲学。

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这本关于爱丁堡的袖珍指南,简直是为我这种“说走就走”的旅行者量身定做的!我是在机场候机时匆忙抓起这本小册子的,当时我的首要需求是快速了解这座城市的脉络,而不是一头扎进历史的海洋里无法自拔。它最让我惊喜的地方在于,它的篇幅控制得极为精妙。你知道吗,很多厚重的旅行指南,光是翻目录就能耗费掉你半个小时的宝贵时间,而这本小巧的家伙,却能在最短时间内,将最核心的区域划分、主要的交通枢纽以及“必看”的几个地标性建筑,用清晰的图示和精炼的文字展现出来。举个例子,它对老城和新城的区分描述,简洁有力,没有冗长的背景介绍,直接告诉你从爱丁堡城堡出发,如何用半天时间高效地扫过皇家一英里的大部分精华。我尤其欣赏它那种直截了当的推荐风格,比如它提到哪家小店提供最地道的哈吉斯(Haggis),哪条小巷子里藏着最适合拍照的视角,这些信息对于初来乍到、时间有限的访客来说,简直是无价之宝。它不是那种让你坐在咖啡馆里读上三天三夜的参考书,而是那种可以揣在口袋里,随时拿出来确认下一站方向的“急救包”。它成功地在“信息量”和“便携性”之间找到了一个极佳的平衡点,让你感觉自己掌握了这座城市的关键钥匙,而不是被一堆次要细节淹没。

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坦白说,我购买这本书时,最看重的是它的设计和实用性,毕竟带着一本笨重的指南在苏格兰多雨的天气里行走,简直是灾难。这本书的装帧和排版设计,可以说是艺术品级别的。它的纸张质量出乎意料地好,即使被雨水稍微打湿,文字也不会模糊晕开,这在爱丁堡这种气候环境下,简直是救星般的存在。更让我称赞的是它的地图系统。通常小册子的地图都会非常粗糙,只能大致指个方向。但这里的地图,不仅清晰地标示出了主要的步行路线,还巧妙地用不同的颜色和符号区分了“步行街”、“公交易达区”以及“景观观景点”。我发现,它在设计上非常注重用户体验,比如在介绍博物馆和画廊的部分,它并没有按照字母顺序排列,而是按照主题——比如“历史与王权”、“艺术与文化”——进行分类,这极大地帮助了我这种有明确兴趣点的游客进行规划。这种“以人为本”的设计理念,让它在使用过程中几乎没有产生任何挫败感。每一次翻阅,都是一种享受,而不是负担。

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我对旅行读物的要求之一,是它必须提供一些超越标准旅游清单之外的“秘密”信息。很多攻略都会告诉你去哪些酒吧喝威士忌,但通常只是列出那些游客都知道的“老牌酒吧”。而这本小指南,却颇具洞察力地指引我去了一些隐蔽的、只有本地人才知道的“Speakeasy”式的威士忌品鉴室。它对苏格兰威士忌的介绍部分,虽然篇幅不长,但内容却非常精炼且专业,它没有用大段复杂的术语来吓唬读者,而是用易懂的方式区分了不同产区(如艾雷岛和斯佩塞)的风味差异。这种知识的深度和广度,让我觉得它不仅仅是一本“游览指南”,更像是一本微型的“文化入门手册”。我特别喜欢它在描述爱丁堡的文学气息时,引用的那些简短而精准的文学片段,让你在行走于格雷菲尔斯墓地时,能立刻联想到那些曾经在这座城市中漫步的伟大作家们。它成功地将这座城市的物质景观与精神内涵,以一种非常巧妙的方式编织在一起。

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