Praise for Durham's Tracklements and Smokery"Best of the best in twenty years of tasting."---Marion Burros, "New York Times""Salmon just doesn't get any better than this."---Sylvia Rector, "Detroit Free Press""A delectably moist, lightly smoked salmon that literally melts in your mouth . . . the most succulent to pass our lips."---"Diversion" magazine"A gastronomic jewel."---"Amherst Bulletin""Truly extraordinary . . . a magnificent job."---Joan Hamburg, WOR Radio, New York"Creamy texture and full, rounded taste."---"Food and Wine"'s Top-Four Smoked Salmon SelectionsHow do you cook with smoked seafood? And can it work "outside the bagel"? Those are two questions that hundreds of customers asked over the years when they stopped by T.R. Durham's shop, Durham's Tracklements and Smokery in Ann Arbor, Michigan, to buy his famous smoked seafood. Inspired, Durham eventually collected enough recipes not only to fill a book but to answer those questions in imaginative and delicious ways."The Smoked Seafood Cookbook" uniquely addresses a neglected spot on the culinary bookshelf. With everything from smoked salmon to mackerel to finnan haddie and smoked scallops, Durham's recipes offer ideas for exciting salads; pasta, potato, and other starch dishes paired with smoked seafood; soups from every corner of the globe; easy-to-prepare appetizers; even smoked-seafood variations on the classic dish brandade."The Smoked Seafood Cookbook" is also designed to take advantage of the near-universal availability of smoked seafood online, via mail-order, in specialty shops, and in almost every supermarket in America. It offers information on the kinds of smoked seafood available, their particular flavors and textures, and what cooking applications best suit each variety. Durham provides chapters on do-it-yourself techniques for home smoking, an illustrated chapter on slicing and serving your own smoked fish, and a listing of sources for smoked seafood. Additionally, the book is beautifully illustrated throughout with color and black-and-white drawings by local artist Noel Bielaczyc.As a way to raise further the profile of smoked seafood's role in cooking---and to provide the culinary industry's endorsement of that idea---the book is sprinkled throughout with recipes from professional chefs across the country. Among the contributors are Mario Batali, chef-owner of many restaurants and author of several cookbooks; Sara Moulton, cookbook author and executive chef of "Gourmet" magazine; Pete Peterson, chef-owner of Tapawingo in Ellsworth, Michigan; Darra Goldstein, cookbook author and editor of "Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture"; and others.If you love smoked seafood, or if you've ever wondered what to do with it besides serve it for brunch or put it on a bagel, "The Smoked Seafood Cookbook" deserves a place in your kitchen.T.R. Durham is the proprietor of Durham's Tracklements and Smokery in Ann Arbor, Michigan. His smoked products have been praised by major food writers from the "New York Times, Boston Globe," and other publications. He lives in Ann Arbor.Noel Bielaczyc grew up in northern Michigan cultivating a deep interest in food, art, and the natural world. He presently supports his appetite as a fishmonger, illustrator, and drawing instructor at the Detroit Institute of Arts.
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说实话,我最初是冲着“海鲜”两个字买的,对烟熏的细节没抱太大期望,但这本书在处理“鱼类处理”这一前期工作上,细致得令人发指,简直是教科书级别的示范。它详尽地说明了腌制盐水的配比、盐渍时间对肉质水分保持的关键作用,甚至包括如何根据鱼的大小调整腌制时间,这些细节对于新手来说简直是救命稻草。书中还配有大量的解剖图和步骤图,清晰地展示了如何给不同类型的鱼开膛去骨,如何均匀地涂抹香料混合物,确保烟熏时受热均匀。我以前总是担心烟熏后鱼肉变干,但书中提供的“保水秘诀”——包括在烟熏炉底部放置冰水盘等小技巧——效果立竿见影。我的第一批烟熏鲭鱼,口感湿润,烟熏味恰到好处地渗透到鱼肉纤维深处,那种成功的喜悦感,无法用言语形容。这本书将一个看似高难度的烹饪过程,分解成了一个个可以轻松完成的小任务,极大地提升了读者的信心。
评分我花了整整一个周末来“消化”这本书的文字内容,那种沉浸感是其他烹饪书难以比拟的。这本书的叙事风格非常独特,它没有采用那种板着脸的教科书式描述,而是充满了对食材的热爱和对烹饪过程的哲学思考。比如,书中有一段关于“时间与烟雾的对话”的描述,将烟熏过程比喻为一场与自然的合作,强调耐心是最好的调味料。这种文学性的描述,让阅读体验变得异常愉悦。更令人惊喜的是,它对不同地域烟熏传统的考证,比如新英格兰的传统烟熏蛤蜊与太平洋西北地区的鲑鱼烟熏技法的对比,展现出作者深厚的文化底蕴。我特别喜欢其中关于“烟熏液”自制的部分,它提供了一系列基于香料混合的配方,让我可以根据当季捕捞到的鱼类特性,调制出独一无二的风味标记。这本书教会我的,不仅是“怎么做”,更是“为什么这么做”,这种底层逻辑的构建,是任何速成指南都无法给予的。读完之后,我看向家里的烟熏箱,眼神都变得不一样了,充满了敬畏和期待。
评分这本书简直是美食界的“黑科技”!我本来对烟熏海鲜这种听起来有点老派的做法持怀疑态度,但《The Smoked Seafood Cookbook》彻底颠覆了我的认知。它不仅仅是一本菜谱集,更像是一本深入浅出的海鲜烟熏艺术百科全书。作者似乎对烟熏的每一个细节都有着近乎痴迷的研究,从木屑的选择——樱桃木的温和果香与山核桃的浓郁醇厚如何相互作用,到温度的精确控制——低温慢熏如何保留鱼肉的细腻多汁,高温快熏如何形成诱人的外壳,都有详尽的文字和精美的图解。我尝试了书里介绍的冷熏三文鱼食谱,按照步骤操作,即便是我这个厨房新手,也做出了那种在高级餐厅才能品尝到的、入口即化的绝妙口感。书中还特别提到了一些不常见的烟熏食材,比如烟熏鸭胸和甚至烟熏奶酪,这极大地拓展了我对“烟熏”这个烹饪手法的理解边界。阅读过程中,我感觉自己不再是简单的读者,而是在一位经验丰富的烟熏大师的炉边,聆听他的独家秘笈。这本书的价值,远超其书本价格,它提供的是一套完整的、可以反复实践并不断精进的烟熏技艺。
评分我是一个追求健康饮食的人,这本书在“健康与安全”方面所做的努力,让我对它肃然起敬。作者并没有避讳烟熏过程中可能存在的健康顾虑,而是直面问题,提供了科学的解决方案。例如,书中详细解释了低温慢熏与高温快熏对硝酸盐和多环芳烃产生的影响,并推荐了如何通过调整烟熏温度和使用特定木材来最大限度地降低风险。它不仅仅是一本教你做菜的书,更是一本关于食品安全的指南。此外,书中对不同腌制盐的用量控制和脱水步骤的强调,也体现了对食品风味与安全平衡的深刻理解。对于那些对食品添加剂敏感的读者来说,这本书提供了完全自主控制食材来源和处理方式的自由。它教会我如何利用自然的力量,安全、美味地将寻常的海洋生物,转化为令人赞叹的餐桌艺术品。这本书无疑是烟熏海鲜爱好者的必备藏品。
评分这本书的排版设计和摄影作品,绝对是业界顶尖水平。每一页都散发着一种朴素而又奢华的美感。那些成品图,不是那种过度美化、失真的商业照,而是充满了生活气息和烟火气的真实记录。你可以清晰地看到烟熏后海鲜表面的那层漂亮的“烟熏膜”,鱼肉在切开时微微反光的油润质感,以及旁边搭配的新鲜香草和柠檬片所呈现出的色彩对比。这种视觉冲击力,极大地激发了我的食欲和创作欲望。更重要的是,这本书在实用性和美观性之间找到了一个完美的平衡点。它不会为了美观而牺牲实用性,所有的步骤指示都清晰地位于图片的旁边或下方,阅读流畅。我甚至把其中几张关于烟熏工具和炉具的图片打印出来,贴在了我的操作台前,它们不仅仅是图片,更是一种激励我不断尝试新挑战的视觉宣言。
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