Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress

Encountering Medieval Textiles and Dress pdf epub mobi txt 电子书 下载 2026

出版者:
作者:Koslin, Desiree G. (EDT)/ Snyder, Janet Ellen (EDT)
出品人:
页数:288
译者:
出版时间:2008-11
价格:$ 44.07
装帧:
isbn号码:9780230602359
丛书系列:
图书标签:
  • Medieval textiles
  • Medieval dress
  • Textile history
  • Fashion history
  • Material culture
  • Clothing
  • Middle Ages
  • History of art
  • Archaeology
  • Costume
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具体描述

This collection introduces the key methodologies and debates surrounding the study of the textiles and dress of the Middle Ages. New viewpoints are brought to bear in the areas of archaeology, art and architecture, economics, law, history, literature, religion, and textile technology.

Reconstructing the Past: Material Culture and Social Identity in the Late Antique and Early Medieval Mediterranean A Deep Dive into the Archaeology, Art History, and Material Culture of the Fifth to Tenth Centuries CE This volume presents a meticulously researched collection of essays dedicated to illuminating the complex tapestry of material culture, social structures, and cross-cultural exchanges that characterized the Late Antique and Early Medieval Mediterranean world, spanning roughly from the deposition of the Western Roman Empire to the height of the Carolingian and Byzantine resurgences. Focusing intently on evidence derived from excavation, iconography, textual analysis, and the study of non-textile material remains—specifically ceramics, metalwork, coinage, and architecture—this collection offers a nuanced perspective on continuity and transformation during a period often reductively labeled as a ‘Dark Age.’ The core premise of this work is that the profound societal shifts occurring between the fifth and tenth centuries are most clearly legible not through the grand narratives of political upheaval, but through the granular detail of everyday objects and the spaces they inhabited. By prioritizing the material evidence, we seek to move beyond traditional historical frameworks anchored solely in elite literary sources, instead exploring how ordinary people, artisans, and merchants navigated an increasingly fragmented political landscape and redefined notions of status, piety, and belonging. Part I: The Archaeology of Transition – Settlement, Consumption, and Trade Networks This section undertakes a comprehensive re-evaluation of settlement patterns across the former Western Roman provinces, particularly focusing on North Africa, the Iberian Peninsula, and Southern Gaul. The essays here scrutinize the longevity and adaptation of Roman infrastructure, demonstrating a persistence of urbanism often masked by a decline in monumental construction. Chapter 1: The Amphorae Trajectory: Tracing Economic Arteries Post-Constantinople. This chapter moves beyond simple typological classification of late antique amphorae, analyzing their residue analysis data in conjunction with paleoclimatological evidence. It meticulously maps the shifting hubs of olive oil and wine production and consumption between the 6th and 8th centuries, revealing the resilience of regional trade networks even as trans-Mediterranean exchange contracted. The analysis contrasts the robust East-West trade routes of the Justinianic period with the increasingly localized patterns that emerged following the Arab conquests of the Levant and North Africa, emphasizing the localized adaptation of storage technologies. Chapter 2: From Villa to Fortified Settlement: Reinterpreting Domestic Space in Visigothic Spain. Utilizing detailed comparative excavation reports from sites in Baetica and Tarraconensis, this study examines the reconfiguration of elite and non-elite domestic architecture. It focuses on the spatial segregation within households, the introduction of new hearth technologies, and the standardization (or lack thereof) in storage facilities. The analysis argues for a nuanced understanding of ‘de-urbanization,’ suggesting a transformation in social aggregation rather than outright abandonment, evidenced by the integration of defensive structures into formerly open villa complexes. Chapter 3: The Circulation of Metalwork: Prestige, Piety, and Provenance in Merovingian Francia. Focusing on small finds—fibulae, belt buckles, and decorative fittings—this chapter employs surface analysis and trace element studies to reconstruct the flow of precious and base metals. It challenges the notion of purely localized smithing traditions, highlighting the surprising degree of long-distance sourcing for materials like tin and copper, and correlates stylistic innovation in metal fittings with documented political and ecclesiastical centers of influence. The discussion specifically avoids textile analysis, concentrating instead on the metallic hardware used to fasten or adorn leather and wool garments. Part II: Iconography and Belief – The Visual Language of the Early Middle Ages This section explores how the visual culture of the period—through mosaics, fresco cycles, illuminated manuscripts, and monumental sculpture—articulated shifting religious orthodoxies and the negotiation between inherited classical forms and burgeoning Christian symbolism. Chapter 4: The Materiality of the Liturgy: Reassessing Early Medieval Reliquaries and Caskets. Moving away from purely theological interpretations, this chapter scrutinizes the construction methods and iconography of portable religious containers dating from the 7th to the 9th centuries. It examines the choice of substrate (ivory, bone, wood sheathed in metal), the density of sculptural carving, and the integration of precious stones. The analysis posits that the physical weight and intrinsic value of these objects were intentionally employed as instruments of political legitimation and spiritual protection within newly established monastic and episcopal power structures. Chapter 5: Iconographic Synthesis in Ravenna: The Palimpsest of Imperial and Religious Imagery. A close reading of the surviving mosaic programs in Ravenna from the sixth through the eighth centuries reveals a continuous, albeit strategically modified, engagement with Roman imperial iconography. This chapter dissects the symbolic language employed in depicting imperial portraits and biblical narratives, focusing particularly on gestures, regalia (where applicable), and the organization of visual hierarchies on the wall surface. The paper emphasizes how the visual medium was marshaled to assert the legitimacy of both the Emperor and the Church in a contested geopolitical sphere. Chapter 6: Manuscript Illumination as Architectural Statement: The Form and Function of Insular Gospel Books. This chapter analyzes the elaborate full-page compositions in early Insular manuscripts, viewing them not merely as devotional aids but as portable architectural schemata. The meticulous geometric interlace, zoomorphic forms, and abstract patterns are examined in relation to contemporary stone carving traditions. The discussion emphasizes the sheer labor investment required, positioning the finished manuscript as a physical embodiment of concentrated spiritual and temporal power, distinct from any focus on the clothing or decoration worn by the scribes or donors. Part III: Epigraphy and Administration – Documents in Stone and Clay The final section addresses documentary evidence embedded in the physical environment, examining how administrative, legal, and commemorative functions were inscribed upon durable media. Chapter 7: Law and Land Tenure in Lombard Italy: Reading the Tombstone Inscriptions. This chapter provides a comparative study of funerary inscriptions from key Lombard centers (e.g., Cividale, Brescia) dating between the mid-seventh and late-eighth centuries. It analyzes formulaic language concerning land inheritance, patronage, and military service, drawing direct correlations between documented property rights and the physical location and size of the associated tombs. The analysis systematically avoids any descriptive elements pertaining to the shrouds or garments placed with the deceased. Chapter 8: The Paleography of Power: Seals and Diplomatic Practice in the Early Byzantine Sphere. Focusing on lead seals (bulla) recovered from sites across the Balkans and Asia Minor, this study charts the evolution of administrative titles and organizational structures within the Byzantine bureaucracy during periods of intense external pressure. The investigation centers on the interplay between the imperial effigy, the surrounding Greek epigraphy, and the technical skill required for their manufacture, treating the seals as primary administrative instruments rather than accessories. Chapter 9: The Material Record of Religious Authority: Reinterpreting Foundation Deposits. This concluding essay synthesizes findings from various excavation reports concerning church foundation deposits across the early medieval West. It catalogs the non-organic materials routinely interred—coins, small metal plaques, architectural fragments, and samples of building aggregate—and analyzes their symbolic significance in establishing the temporal and eternal validity of consecrated space. The evidence presented reaffirms the centrality of durable, non-perishable objects in mediating authority during a time of profound social flux.

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