INTRODUCTION<br > S<br > If a chicken has been killed,<br > and it is not cooked properly, that<br > chicken has died in vain. <br > LIN YUTANG<br >I BEGAN TO WRITE this book as a celebration of meat and meat cookery. It was to be<br >about the pleasures to be had from cooking- and sharing with friends - a cassoulet on a<br >winter evening, a joint of beef for the Sunday lunch table or a new recipe for liver<br >learned when I last visited friends in Italy. But it is not about persuading you to eat more<br >meat. Quite the opposite, in fact. It is about cooking and eating good quality meat, from<br >animals raised in a humane fashion which respects their natural habitat, their feeding,<br >breeding and nurturing habits. It takes time and money to produce such meat. It was an<br >unwillingness to pay the real price of raising real meat in the past, based on an ex-<br >pectation that food should be cheap, which led to the intensification of farming, both of<br > crops and livestock. If we want cheap meat, only intensive farming can supply it. In the<br > following pages, I have examined aspects of intensive farming and some of the alterna-<br > tives, and looked at some of the arguments put forward in the meat debate.<br > The seeds for the book were sown in 1987 when I was asked ifI would like to write a<br > series on meat cookery for~4 la carte. I did not like the idea at first. Fish, pasta and veget-<br > ables were the things I most liked cooking. We did not eat meat very often at home, and<br > I could not remember the last time I cooked roast bee~ Indeed, I began to doubt whether<br > I could roast a traditional Sunday ioint with all the trimmings. But I accepted the com-<br > mission and began my research by visiting farmers, butchers and markets. I then moved<br > on to the cooking and enjoyed myself so much with the roasts that it was this classic<br > area of meat cookery I concentrated on in the ~ la carte series. All the while, 1 knew that<br > there was so much more to meat cookery. This book is the result.<br > I am very grateful to all those at Chatto & Windus and Random Century who helped<br > bring it about, particularly Rowena Skelton-Wallace, Julian Shuckburgh and, above all,<br > Carmen Callil, who has supported me from the moment I ",vent to her with the idea for<br > the book, with enthusiasm, kindness, insight, patience, valuable criticism - everything<br > one could ask for from a publisher but seldom gets. Vicky Hayward has been the most<br > supportive, creative and encouraging editor one could hope for, and I feel very lucky to<br > have had the benefit of her excellent judgment and thoroughness.<br > 7<br >
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坦白讲,我最初买这本书是抱着试试看的心态,因为我是一个烹饪新手,很多复杂的食谱对我来说简直是天书。然而,这本书的入门友好度超乎我的想象。作者非常贴心地为每一类基础烹饪技巧,比如如何正确地煎制牛排、如何打出完美的酱汁乳化液,都设置了专门的“新手指南”章节,里面用非常清晰的比喻和简化的语言解释了背后的科学原理。比如,它解释“美拉德反应”时,没有用复杂的化学术语,而是用“焦糖化的魔法”来描述,一下子就让人明白了。我成功地用书中的基础油封鸭食谱,做出了餐厅级别的成品,这极大地增强了我的烹饪信心。它没有强迫你使用那些只有专业厨师才有的昂贵工具,很多地方都提供了替代方案,比如用普通的平底锅来代替铸铁锅,只要调整火候和时间即可。这种务实和鼓励的语气,让我在厨房里不再感到畏惧。
评分这本书的烹饪理念简直是刷新了我对“家常菜”的认知,它没有那种高高在上的米其林式矫饰,全是真真切切的烟火气。我尤其欣赏作者在处理食材时那种近乎偏执的尊重,比如讲解如何挑选一块上好的牛腩时,那种对纹理、色泽的细致入微的描述,让人感觉不是在看食谱,而是在读一篇关于肉类哲学的散文。更棒的是,即便是看似简单的菜肴,比如慢炖的排骨汤,书中也提供了好几种不同地域的风味变体,从偏甜的江浙风味到重口麻辣的川渝做法,每一种都有详尽的步骤图解和背后的故事,仿佛作者亲自在你身边指导。我尝试了那个“五小时慢烤的香草羊腿”,结果惊艳了整个家庭,外皮酥脆,内里嫩得可以直接用叉子拨开,那股混合着迷迭香和百里香的香气至今仍让我回味无穷。这本书的配方不仅实用,而且充满了对烹饪过程的热爱,它教会我的不仅仅是如何做出一道菜,而是如何用心去对待每一餐。
评分我得说,这本书的装帧设计和排版简直是一场视觉盛宴,光是翻阅它就成了一种享受。不同于市面上很多食谱只有冰冷的文字和摆拍僵硬的图片,这里的摄影作品充满了生命力和动态感,油光水滑的烤肉、热气腾腾的汤汁,每张照片都像是一个定格的美味瞬间,让人忍不住想立刻冲进厨房。版式的布局也极其讲究,关键的步骤信息用粗体或特殊的边框突出显示,而背景知识和烹饪小贴士则巧妙地融入在页边空白处,阅读起来毫不费力,即使是手忙脚乱地在灶台边翻阅,也能迅速定位所需信息。而且,它不仅仅是一本菜谱,更像是一本精致的生活方式杂志。我特别喜欢作者在每道菜前面都会加入一段关于食材来源地的介绍,比如某个特定品种的猪肉是如何在特定的饲养环境下形成其独特的风味的,这种深度的文化融入,让烹饪从机械重复的劳动,变成了一种探索和体验的过程。
评分我必须指出,这本书的组织逻辑非常清晰,它不是简单地按照“开胃菜、主菜、甜点”这种老套路来划分,而是根据“烹饪技法”来构建的,这一点设计得极其巧妙。开篇是“火候的艺术”,涵盖了煎、炒、烤、炖等基本功;接着是“风味的交织”,专注于酱汁和香料的搭配哲学;最后才是具体的菜肴应用。这种结构迫使读者在学习具体菜谱之前,先掌握背后的核心技术。我个人受益最大的就是“酱汁”那一章,它把基础的“母酱”及其衍生酱汁的制作流程图画得非常直观,我终于搞明白了法式白酱、荷兰酱和贝夏梅酱之间的微妙区别和转化路径。读完这一部分,我感觉自己对整餐饭的掌控力都提升了一个档次,不再是被动地照着做,而是可以根据手头的食材和心情灵活变通,进行二次创作。这本书真正做到了“授人以渔”,而不是仅仅“授人以鱼”。
评分这本书的深度和广度令人敬畏,它绝非一本普通的家常菜谱合集,更像是一本详尽的烹饪百科全书,特别是关于食材处理和风味搭配的部分,简直是宝藏。我花了好几天时间去研究其中关于“腌制”和“熟成”的章节,作者详细对比了干式熟成、湿式熟成在口感和风味上的差异,并提供了不同肉类(牛肉、猪肉、禽类)在不同环境下的操作参数和安全注意事项,内容详实到可以拿去进行专业培训了。更让我印象深刻的是,作者在设计食谱时,总是会考虑“风味的层次感”。例如,一道简单的烤肉,他会建议在不同阶段加入不同的香料和酸性物质来提亮或加深味道,使得最终的成品风味复杂且富有张力,而不是一味地“咸”或“香”。这种对味觉深度的追求,让这本书的价值远超出了普通烹饪书的范畴,是值得反复研读和收藏的工具书。
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