Jean-Georges Vongerichten, chef and owner of 18 restaurants around the world, pioneered Asian-fusion cuisine and cooks this food better than anyone on the planet. In Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges , he presents dozens of recipes for reproducing the dishes that have made his restaurants--Vong, Spice Market, and 66--the hottest dining destinations in New York City.
Jean-Georges began his love affair with Asian food when he became the chef de cuisine at the renowned Oriental Hotel in Bangkok at the age of twenty-three. His trips to the markets of Bangkok sparked a lifelong obsession with ingredients like ginger, lemongrass, curry pastes and powders, and all kinds of exotic fruits and vegetables. In 1992, when he came to New York to cook at Lafayette in the Drake Hotel, he was the first to combine the flavors of Thailand with French technique. The restaurant was a sensation, immediately earning four stars from the New York Times , and launching his dazzling career in the United States.
In 1997, he opened an outpost of Vong in Hong Kong and discovered the world of authentic and refined Chinese cooking and ingredients. As he says, “Every meal in Hong Kong contain[s] a thousand flavors.” He opened 66 in New York to showcase his newfound passion for the Chinese kitchen.
And then in 2003 he opened Spice Market, his homage to Asian street food, after five years of research and extensive travels through Southeast Asia (documented in the photos in this book). Once again, he translated Asian cuisine through a French sensibility for American diners. Spice Market instantly became his most popular restaurant and remains one of New York’s most sought-after reservations.
Now Jean-Georges has brought together the best of his pan-Asian recipes in one exciting cookbook. The recipes reflect Jean-Georges’s extraordinary talent for creating intensely flavorful dishes inspired by simple home cooking and street food. The secret is his subtle and surprising combinations, which, as in his restaurants, introduce Asian flavors to traditional Western-style dishes and cooking techniques. His special approach comes deliciously to life in such main courses as Grilled Chicken with Kumquat Lemongrass Dressing, Black Pepper Shrimp with “Sun-Dried” Pineapple, Cod with Malaysian Chili Sauce, and Lamb Shank Braised with Green Curry and Vegetables. Unusual side dishes include Steamed Spicy Eggplant and Coconut Sticky Rice. For dessert, there are treats like Chocolate and Vietnamese Coffee Tart or a Seasonal Fruit Plate with Lime-Spiced Salt. Each recipe is laid out in a clear, easy-to-follow style, and throughout the book invaluable tips are offered for streamlining preparation and cooking.
From taste-tempting appetizers, soups, and salads, to irresistible fish, meat, poultry, and vegetable dishes, to special sauces and one-of-a-kind sweets, the recipes in Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges promise to make dining at home as exciting as an evening out at one of Jean-Georges's fabulous restaurants.
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阅读这本书的过程,让我联想到在一家极其优雅的画廊里欣赏现代艺术品——你可以赞叹其美妙的构图和色彩的运用,但却很难理解其背后的创作冲动。我本来希望这本书能深入探讨“发酵”——这个亚洲美食的灵魂所在。无论是韩国的泡菜、日本的味噌,还是中国的腐乳,发酵都是时间与微生物共同作用的奇迹。我期待看到关于如何控制温度、湿度,以及选择合适的菌种来进行家庭级别的深度发酵项目。例如,如何在家中培育出风味独特的米曲霉来制作自己的甜酒酿或酱油。这本书对此方面的讨论,几乎是蜻蜓点水,仅仅提到了使用市售的味噌作为调味料。这就像是作者站在美食的巅峰,向我们展示了一幅壮丽的景象,却拒绝告诉我们攀登上去的具体路径。对于我来说,一本真正有价值的食谱,应当是那些勇敢地揭示其“秘密武器”的书籍。这本书的“秘密武器”似乎就是作者那无法复制的灵感和背景,而非那些可以被拆解、学习并内化的具体技术。我需要的是一把通往风味殿堂的钥匙,而不是一张精美的藏宝图的插图。
评分这本书的书名实在是太诱人了,光是“ASIAN FLAVORS”这几个词就足以让我这个终日与厨房为伍的家庭煮妇心跳加速。我原以为它会是一本专注于东南亚香料的深度挖掘,比如详细讲解如何在家中自制正宗的马来参巴酱,或者对越南鱼露进行历史和化学成分的剖析。然而,当我翻开第一页,映入眼帘的却是一系列令人目眩神迷的法式经典菜肴,只是在其中巧妙地融入了几抹东方色彩。比如那道招牌的香草烤鸡,它摒弃了传统的黄油和百里香,转而使用了少许四川花椒和柠檬草进行腌制。这种融合的张力,简直像极了品尝一杯精心调制的鸡尾酒——基酒是醇厚的经典,而点缀其上的香料则是那一抹令人惊喜的异域风情。我特别期待书中能有更多关于“平衡”的论述,如何让原本风格迥异的食材在同一个盘中达到和谐共存,而不是互相喧宾夺主。如果它能提供关于食材采购的深度指南,比如哪里能找到最地道的日本柚子醋,或者如何判断泰国青柠的成熟度,那这本书的实用价值就更上一层楼了。整体而言,这本书的摄影和版式设计非常高级,但内容上,我感觉它更像是一本“法式高级料理的创意辅料集”,而非我原以为的那种纯粹的亚洲烹饪圣经。
评分翻阅这本烹饪书,我立刻被它所散发出的一种强烈的“旅行日记”氛围所吸引。它似乎不仅仅是一本食谱集,更像是一部关于作者在亚洲各地游历的心情写照。我原以为作者会深入探讨不同地区之间风味的递进关系,比如从清淡的日本料理如何影响到浓烈的川渝风味,或者探讨禅宗哲学在器皿选择上的体现。然而,书中关于地域风味的理论探讨非常克制,更多的是对某次特定体验的描绘。比如,书中花了大量篇幅描述作者在京都一家老店吃到的一碗拉面是如何启发了他对“高汤的层次感”的理解,接着便直接跳到了他用这个灵感制作的法式清汤。这种叙事手法固然浪漫,却让我感觉自己像个旁观者,而非学习者。我更倾向于那种能让我感受到“烹饪的逻辑链条”的书籍,即从基础风味轮廓开始,一步步推导出最终菜品的构建过程。如果能有专门一章对比分析“酱油”在不同菜系中的作用差异,例如日式酱油的鲜味与中式酱油的咸香在同一道菜中如何取舍,那将会是极具启发性的内容。这本书的优点在于激发了我的好奇心,但缺点在于它没有提供足够详尽的“操作手册”。
评分这本书的装帧设计有一种独特的冷峻美感,大量的留白和极简的字体选择,营造出一种非常现代、前卫的餐饮哲学。我最初是被封面上的那道带着金色箔片的菜肴所吸引,它暗示着这本食谱可能包含了许多令人惊叹的“分子料理”或高科技烹饪技巧。我一直对使用液氮、胶体、乳化剂等现代技法来重塑传统亚洲食材充满兴趣。我期待看到如何用科学的方法来优化亚洲食材的风味释放。比如,用超临界萃取技术来分离香茅中的精油,以达到比传统浸泡更纯净的香味。但令人意外的是,书中所有的食谱似乎都回归到了相对传统的烹饪工具,比如平底锅、烤箱和蒸锅。这让我不禁怀疑,这本书的“ASIAN FLAVORS”究竟是体现在对食材的理解上,还是仅仅停留在“加入一点点姜黄”这种表层的调味上?如果它真的想走在前沿,我希望能看到一些关于“风味分子重构”的实验记录,哪怕只是理论上的探讨也好。这本书的“高级感”似乎更多地建立在视觉冲击上,而非技术上的革新,这对于我寻求烹饪突破的读者来说,略感遗憾。
评分这本书的定价不菲,我满怀期待地把它带回家,希望能从中挖掘出一些能让我朋友们惊掉下巴的宴客绝招。坦白说,我最想看到的是那些关于“烟熏”和“发酵”技术的突破性运用。想象一下,如果能用中国的樟茶鸭的烟熏工艺来处理鹅肝,或者用泰国的酸坛发酵技术来保存西式的腌菜,那该是何等惊人的味觉体验!我花了好大力气寻找此类“颠覆性”的章节,却发现大部分篇幅都集中在对精致摆盘的详尽指导上。书中的配图精致得如同艺术品,每一个摆盘都堪称米其林三星级别的标准。但这对我这种追求“一学就会,一做就对”的实用主义者来说,有点像是买了一辆F1赛车却只被允许在自家后院开。我更希望看到的是,作者如何化繁为简,将那些复杂的烹饪步骤提炼成普通家庭厨房可以操作的流程。例如,关于高汤的部分,这本书似乎默认读者拥有专业的提取设备,对于普通锅具如何熬制出浓郁的“日式清汤基底”的细节描述略显不足。也许对于专业厨师而言,这些都是常识,但对于我这样的业余爱好者来说,一个关于如何用最基础的工具达到最佳萃取效果的“小贴士”都价值千金。
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