Barbarian Days pdf epub mobi txt 电子书 下载 2024


Barbarian Days

简体网页||繁体网页
William Finnegan
Penguin Press
2015-7-21
464
USD 27.95
Hardcover
9781594203473

图书标签: 传记  William  Finnegan  普利策  文学  回忆录  2016普利策  美国   


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发表于2024-12-23

Barbarian Days epub 下载 mobi 下载 pdf 下载 txt 电子书 下载 2024

Barbarian Days epub 下载 mobi 下载 pdf 下载 txt 电子书 下载 2024

Barbarian Days pdf epub mobi txt 电子书 下载 2024



图书描述

A deeply rendered self-portrait of a lifelong surfer by the acclaimed New Yorker writer

Barbarian Days is William Finnegan’s memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else entirely: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life. Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South Pacific, Australia, Asia, Africa. A bookish boy, and then an excessively adventurous young man, he went on to become a distinguished writer and war reporter. Barbarian Days takes us deep into unfamiliar worlds, some of them right under our noses—off the coasts of New York and San Francisco. It immerses the reader in the edgy camaraderie of close male friendships annealed in challenging waves.

Finnegan shares stories of life in a whitesonly gang in a tough school in Honolulu even while his closest friend was a Hawaiian surfer. He shows us a world turned upside down for kids and adults alike by the social upheavals of the 1960s. He details the intricacies of famous waves and his own apprenticeships to them. Youthful folly—he drops LSD while riding huge Honolua Bay, on Maui—is served up with rueful humor. He and a buddy, their knapsacks crammed with reef charts, bushwhack through Polynesia. They discover, while camping on an uninhabited island in Fiji, one of the world’s greatest waves. As Finnegan’s travels take him ever farther afield, he becomes an improbable anthropologist: unpicking the picturesque simplicity of a Samoan fishing village, dissecting the sexual politics of Tongan interactions with Americans and Japanese, navigating the Indonesian black market while nearly succumbing to malaria. Throughout, he surfs, carrying readers with him on rides of harrowing, unprecedented lucidity.

Barbarian Days is an old-school adventure story, an intellectual autobiography, a social history, a literary road movie, and an extraordinary exploration of the gradual mastering of an exacting, little understood art. Today, Finnegan’s surfing life is undiminished. Frantically juggling work and family, he chases his enchantment through Long Island ice storms and obscure corners of Madagascar.

Barbarian Days 下载 mobi epub pdf txt 电子书

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Barbarian Days pdf epub mobi txt 电子书 下载
想要找书就要到 小哈图书下载中心
立刻按 ctrl+D收藏本页
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Not an easy read, but a good memoir to know a little about 60s hippie culture.

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If a big surfing fan, good to hv a look.

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If a big surfing fan, good to hv a look.

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If a big surfing fan, good to hv a look.

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Not an easy read, but a good memoir to know a little about 60s hippie culture.

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Barbarian Days pdf epub mobi txt 电子书 下载 2024


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