List of Figures
List of Tables and Charts
Acknowledgments
Notes on Contributors
General Introduction - Linda Welters and Abby Lillethun
Part I: A Brief History of Fashion
Introduction - Linda Welters
1. From Prehistory through Byzantium - Abby Lillethun
2. Europe to 1700 - Linda Welters
3. From Baroque Elegance to the French Revolution: 1700-1790 - Kimberly Chrisman-Campbell
4. From Neoclassicism to the Industrial Revolution: 1790-1860 - Susan North
5. The Victorian and Edwardian Eras: 1860-1910 - Cynthia Cooper
6. The Modern Era: 1910-1960 - Tiffany Webber
7. The Postmodern Age: 1960-2010 - José Blanco F.
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part I
Part II: Fashion Theory
Introduction - Abby Lillethun
8. Dress as an Expression of the Pecuniary Culture - Thorstein Veblen
9. The Power of Fashion - Kurt Lang and Gladys Engel Lang
10. Written Clothing - Roland Barthes
11. The Fashion System - Grant McCracken
12. The Dressed Body - Joanne Entwistle
13. Re-Orienting Fashion Theory - Sandra Niessen
14. Fashion at the Edge - Caroline Evans
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part II
Part III: Psychology of Fashion
Introduction - Abby Lillethun
15. The Fundamental Motives - J. C. Flugel
16. To the Fashion Industry as Represented by the British Fashion Council - Janet Treasure et al.
17. Hearts and Masks - David Muggleton
18. Shopping Addiction: Is Shopping Costing More Than Money? - Marilyn Clark and Kirsten Salerno
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part III
Part IV: Fashion and Identity
Introduction - Abby Lillethun
19. Is it a Girl or a Boy? Gender Identity and Children's Clothing - Colleen R. Callahan and Jo B. Paoletti
20. Sentimental Culture and the Problem of Fashion - Karen Halttunen
21. Men and Women: Dressing the Part - Jo B. Paoletti and Claudia Brush Kidwell
22. The Zoot Suit and Style Warfare - Stuart Cosgrove
23. Invisible Men? - Shaun Cole
24. Subculture: The Unnatural Break - Dick Hebdige
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IV
Part V: Fashion: Space and Place
Introduction - Linda Welters
25. World Cities of Fashion - David Gilbert
26. Popularizing Fashion in Melbourne, Australia - Sally Weller
27. Fashion Blogs - Sarah Moore
28. Globalization Reconsidered: The Historical Geography of Modern Western Male Attire - Wilbur Zelinsky
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part V
Part VI: Ethnicity, Culture and Dress
Introduction - Abby Lillethun
29. The Highlander Myth - Hugh Trevor-Roper
30. The Veil in Their Minds and on Our Heads: Veiling Practices and Muslim Women
- Homa Hoodfar
31. Guayaberismo and the Essence of Cool - Marilyn Miller
32. Youth Cosmopolitanism: Clothing, the City and Globalization in Dakar, Senegal - Suzanne Scheld
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VI
Part VII: Politics of Fashion
Introduction - Abby Lillethun
33. Failed Censures: Ecclesiastical Regulation of Women's Clothing in Late Medieval Italy - Thomas M. Izbicki
34. The Calico Campaign: Prohibition of East Indian Cottons - Beverly Lemire
35. Trade Policies - Arthur C. Mead
36. Finding the Moral Fiber: Why Reform is Urgently Needed for a Fair Cotton Trade - Oxfam Briefing Paper
37. Sweatshop: A First Edition - Robert J. S. Ross
38. Not Only Nike's Doing It: "Sweating" and the Contemporary Labor Market - Richard McIntyre and Yngve Ramstad
39. Feminism and Fashion - Elizabeth Wilson
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VII
Part VIII: Fashion and the Body
Introduction - Abby Lillethun
40. Corsets in Vogue - Valerie Steele
41. Nap Time: Historicizing the Afro - Robin D. G. Kelley
42. "Material Girl": Madonna as Postmodern Heroine - Susan Bordo
43. The Slimming of Yvonne Blue - Joan Jacobs Brumberg
44. Fashioning the Body Today - Susan J. Vincent
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part VIII
Part IX: Fashion and Art
Introduction - Linda Welters
45. Art and Fashion - Michael Boodro
46. Fashion Rendering - Richard Martin
47. On the Marked Change in Fashion Photography - Olivier Zahm
48. Viktor & Rolf - Andrew Bolton
49. Shed, Cathedral or Museum? - Chantal Béret
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part IX
Part X: Fashion, Media and Communication
Introduction - Linda Welters
50. Fashion on the Page - Christopher Breward
51. Supermodels and Super Bodies - Jennifer Craik
52. Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis - Kathleen Craughwell-Varda
53. Hot Couture: Brigitte Bardot's Fashion Revolution - Ginette Vincendeau
54. Sex and the City in the British Fashion Press - Anna König
55. Hip Hop - Tricia Rose
56. Selling Culture: Bloomingdale's, Diana Vreeland, and the New Aristocracy of Taste in Reagan's America - Debora Silverman
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part X
Part XI: From Haute Couture to the Street
Introduction - Linda Welters
57. When Worth Was King - Anne Hollander
58. The Dressmaking World - Thérèse Bonney and Louise Bonney
59. Torontonian Taste in Couture - Alexandra Palmer
60. Trickle Down, Bubble Up - Ted Polhemus
61. Secondhand Dresses and the Role of the Ragmarket - Angela McRobbie
62. Punks and Pirates: The Costiff Collection of Vivienne Westwood - Sonnet Stanfill
63. Japanese Street Fashion: The Urge To Be Seen and To Be Heard - Yuniya Kawamura Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XI
Part XII: Design and Manufacture
Introduction - Linda Welters
64. Inside Design-A Look at the Method Behind the Madness - Katy Chapman
65. Fashion Sorceress - Linda Tischler
66. The Diary of a Dress: Alexander McQueen Shares the Saga of How One of His Inspirations-A Peter Arnold Orchid Photograph-Evolved from Simple Sketch to Production Nightmare to a Stunning Gown Fit for Supermodel Naomi Campbell - Lisa Armstrong
67. Born in the USA: The Growing Premium-Denim Market Goes Global - Julia Fein Azoulay
68. It's in the Bag - Dana Thomas
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XII
Part XIII: Marketing and Merchandising
Introduction - Linda Welters
69. Business Sense: It Takes a Lot More than Individual Flair to Stay at the Top - John Andrews
70. Return to Clubland - Mark Tungate
71. New Luxury - Dana Thomas
72. American Apparel - Rob Walker
73. Dorothy Shaver: Promoter of "The American Look" - Tiffany Webber-Hanchett
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIII
Part XIV: The Fashion Business and Global Economics
Introduction - Abby Lillethun
74. What Happened to Fashion? - Teri Agins
75. The Islamic Factor - Nicholas Coleridge
76. Zara: The Business Model for Fast Fashion - Teresa M. McCarthy
77. Four Models of Fashion Relationships - Simona Segre Reinach
78. Fashion in India - Vandana Bhandari
79. Made in China - Arthur C. Mead
80. "Two for a Penny" - Pietra Rivoli
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XIV
Part XV: Sustainability and Fashion
Introduction - Linda Welters
81. Fiber Sustainability: Green is Not Black + White - Martin Bide
82. Weaving a New Future - Julian M. Allwood, Søren Ellebæk Laursen, Cecilia Malvido De Rodriguez and Nancy M. Bocken
83. Digital and Democratic - Sarah Scaturro
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XV
Part XVI: Future of Fashion
Introduction - Linda Welters
84. The Evolution of the Chicago Fashion Initiative - Melissa Gamble
85. Born to Buy - Juliet B. Schor
86. Aging and Demographics: Implications for the Fashion Industry - Claire Lacoste-Kapstein
87. Luxury Fashion Branding - Uche Okonkwo
88. Wearable Technology - Lucy E. Dunne
Annotated Guide to Further Reading for Part XVI
Bibliography
Index - See more at: http://www.bloomsbury.com/uk/the-fashion-reader-9781847885890/#sthash.nRhBPO52.dpuf
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